Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched, but not as much as i wanted to because the 30second thing was pissing me off, so i'm just posting my problem... sorry if it's been covered already.

Okay, my car is a fresh import from Japan.

Problem a)

I am told that in Japan the radio stations only go up to 90.0. My radio will not tune to anything above 90.0. Is there an easy fix to this (ie. by pressing buttons on my head unit) or do i have to change something behind it?

Problem B)

The car has come with a TV. Again, I am told, that Japan is on NTSC, and Australia is on PAL. Is there any way to change this myself, or is it another thing i need to pay somebody to change over?

Just wanted to check with you guys before I fork over money for solutions.

Any help greatly appreciated, and i'm sorry about being vague in descriptions - i am not the best with this stuff.

~sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67425-radio-and-tv-from-japan/
Share on other sites

radio, you can buy frequency shifters that go inline with the aerial socket, from like jaycar, also that shift all the stations +10MHz so u will tune everything 10 MHz down on the radio, like nova would be 86.9 etc...

as for tv, japan has NTSC, not sure what you would do there with that one...

Problem a)

I am told that in Japan the radio stations only go up to 90.0. My radio will not tune to anything above 90.0. Is there an easy fix to this (ie. by pressing buttons on my head unit) or do i have to change something behind it?

As oRiCLe says you need a band expander, they usually come in shifts of 10, 14 and 20mhz.

Problem B)

The car has come with a TV. Again, I am told, that Japan is on NTSC, and Australia is on PAL. Is there any way to change this myself, or is it another thing i need to pay somebody to change over?

Unfortunately this is not as easy as sorting out the radio. You are facing 2 problems - Japanese TV stations are all on UHF, and I believe Aussie (like NZ) has a mix of VHF and UHF TV stations meaning you wouldn't be able to tune in some of them.

And then you hit the more fundamental problem of NTSC vs PAL, different encoding in the TV signal. I've heard that some TV units can be converted internally (as they have chipsets that work with either and are preselected for one or the other), and some are impossible to convert as they are fixed to NTSC.

Easiest solution is to see if the TV unit has a video in connector, and then buy an external PAL TV tuner which has an NTSC output. Unfortunately this means you can't control the TV tuner from the headunit, usually the external tuners have a remote of some type to do this.

the band expanders ive experienced are a waste of money. They do their meant to do but its not clear all the time. you get a lot of static etc on the radio....

If you really want to listen to radio then its easier to buy a new head unit. And then you'll have to get an adapter for the antenna becase thats different too.

there is a place in sydney that converts Jap in car TVs. from what I understand there are two main things they do.

1. modify the tuner so it can receive Aus stations

2. install a Pal to NTSC converter so it can be displayed properly on the screen.

The place to go to is called Nams Electrical here in Sydney, from what I hear Nam is the master of this stuff. they specialise in it.

I will be taking my UZZ32 soarer there soon for the conversion.

there is a place in sydney that converts Jap in car TVs. from what I understand there are two main things they do.  

1. modify the tuner so it can receive Aus stations

2. install a Pal to NTSC converter so it can be displayed properly on the screen.

The place to go to is called Nams Electrical here in Sydney, from what I hear Nam is the master of this stuff. they specialise in it.

I will be taking my UZZ32 soarer there soon for the conversion.

Do you know if they modify the tuner, or install a seperate tuner? Step 2) would suggest a seperate tuner is installed? Do their mods allow the TV to be controlled from the factory head unit, or is a seperate remote required?

I can only speak with any surety (spelling?) on soarer systems. with the soarer they install a chip that modifies the factory tuner, so yes, the factory tuner is retained and is still controlled by the factory head unit (in the soarers case - touch screen).

I'm not sure if the conversion would still be the same for aftermarket systems, at a guess I'd say no. But the best bet is to call or email Nam.

http://www.nam.net.au/

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

also... the head unit has TV control written on it in the bottom right, above 8 and 9. so i have a feeling in working order sound goes through that and out the speakers, but at the moment i have no sound - not even static.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...