Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

sounds like it will be a killer engine. More revvy than an rb26 and with more torque than an rb25!! very interested to see how it turns out. Are you using an r33 gearbox? cause the r32 one is just going to go POP! Also let us know what cams u go and if u convert to solid lifters

I'm joining in on this one guys. I want to stretch this little 2.0L engines wings as much as I can, using as many stock parts as posible.(it means I dont have S**t loads of money).

I have my turbochargers exhaust housing being modified at the minute. It's a T3 flange .63AR. What I did was bore into the scroll area in line with the direction of the airflow into the turbine, just before it turns the corner. This is where the external wastegate goes.

This way the airflow doent have to turn a corner to escape out to atmoshpere.

I'll have pics soon

Turbine

What will the gearbox's take??

I could do with something that can take 400bhp clutch kicks :cheers:

haha well the rb20 box wont last long doin those kinda stunts! especially with the extra torque of the 2.4L. Would strongly suggest beefing up clutch and upgrading to an r33 gearbox (they can handle upto ~400KW maybe more), they are basically a gtr box without the transfer case

I wouldnt spend the money on the g'box if it is still running ok, wait til/if it breaks. Mine is hanging in there, for a week or two it felt a bit ordinary after a fluid change but 1,000kms later it has come good, mind you that only 2.0L and less only 215-235rwkws...but spend the money on a kick ass clutch for the RB20 box, then when ithe box goes get the RB25, the few months you get out of the std box will lwt the bank account recover:)

BTW wanted to ask, i was thinking about it today if i change the storke of my engine does it change the compression ratio?? why yes it does.

Stock Bore and strok is 78mm x 69.7mm and the new bore and stroke is 82mm X 73.7mm.

THe stock compression ratio is 8.5:1

Anyone fancy working out the new CR, i bet other people don't bother with this but i bet its going to be easly in the mid 9:1's

OK first off sorry about 3 posts in a row, you should be replying bitches lol

I've just sent the order form off too TOMEI for the parts :cry:

I was saving this money for a holiday you know guys, lol

Tomei bit:

82mm Pistons for RB24DET

1.8mm head gasket 83.5mm ø

valve springs (soild type)

Soild lifters + adjuster shims

Timing belt

PROCAMs + pulleys (solid type)

£2500 spent at 3am in the morning, i'm going to wake up tomorrow and this will all just be a dream i hope. :rofl:

Tis going to be a beast :cheers:

P/s i need to know, does the GTR oil pump fit the RB20? is it a good upgrade if so? also water pump?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...