Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im currently considerig buying another rb20, the compression results the seller gave me are as follws...

1-130

2-135

3-130

4-130

5-130

6-135

Is it just me or are these numbers a bit low. Im not worried about the difference seen in no2 and 6. I just thought a healthy engine should show compression of maybe 150 - 160? Although seller assures me these number are spot on? test was done on a warm engine

Thanks for your time, Tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67557-rb20det-compression-results/
Share on other sites

i have a 1989 rb20det eccs in my HR31 Gts-x

did compression test the other week. the engine is stock, runs normal boost, and runs beautifully. ran 135 on all 6.

my other mates' rb20det silvertop is bout 113 on all 6 and it's unhealthy.

That's very close to what both my RB20's tested at recently..

My gauge has always read low, and seems to read 130psi on a healthy engine. So I wouldn't be too worried.

As long as they are within 10% everything should be fairly fine.

my rb20det with 160 kms on the car had it around 150 to 160 with most on 155

but apparently the engine was rebuilt bout 30thousand kms ago

but i remember somewhere it doesnt really matter as long as there isnt a big difference between the cylinders

might not be a bad idea to pay to get it tested by a mechanic you know

just to elaborate on what i just said th ough, a comrpession test won't pick up everything

i've comp tested ca18det's which were piston slapping pieces of crap and they pulled 165-170psi all round

i've also tested an ex-drifted sr20 which got 165psi but engine ran nice and smoothly, just had been driven on rev-limiter for most of it's life...

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers fellas, I got a price for a r33 gtst box was 1500 including post and thought it was too cheap  
    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
×
×
  • Create New...