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Just a tid bit of info that others may be able to make use of.

Back in 2001, or was it 2002:confused: i had my master cylinder re-sleeved as it appeared to have been worn and was allowing pressure to bleed past its seals.

Fast forward to 2005 and the last two track days have meant the brake pedal has been getting progressively worse / spongier:(

So off to Race Brakes and it appears that when you have the master cylinder re-sleeved (using stainless) it ends up being a little harder on seals. As a measure i got about 60,000kms of road use with occassional track work.

One thing i did notice before a day in December at the track, was the fluid was very bad. Perhaps it was topped up by a mechanic using crap, or was just particularly dirty?!?!?!?! But i have heard rumour that if your fluid is really bad and you flush the fluid, then crap can become lodges in / against seals etc?

Anyway, just in case others fall victim to a re-sleeved master cylinder only lasting 2-3 years, and approx 80,000kms...whether thats the norm:confused:

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I put a new aftermarket clutch master cylinder in a corolla - it lasted about 5000kjm then gave up. Got an exchange as it was faulty - still a pain to change again. The next one was fine.

But although this is not relevant to you, when the mechanics pulled apart the leaking 5000km old cylinder they found what looked like old fluid inside and tried to blame me at first for not using new fluid. Turns out when they manufacture them they put some assembly oil in there so the seals dont dry out when they are on the shelves or shipping etc. Maybe the guys that resleeved yours put some kind of different oil inside. Not sure

Hard to know which way to go I guess..cheap aftermarket or resleeve old one.

My sleeved master cylinder lasted a whole .... ooh gee 30-50m if that :cheers:

After 6mths of mucking around I learnt it was best to just buy a brand new standard master cylinder from Japan.

:rofl::) :)

Isnt the OEM item like $440 ish though, versus the $70 for the aftermarket item?

Mines been fine running a os twinplate for nearly 5000 kms...std item n my car only got to 110,000kms (reading by the speedo cluster)

Ok, well after a few road tests and looking at the master cylinder, it appears thats not the problem:(

Basically it looks like my 324mm rotor upgrade using the std caliper is running into strife when using a slightly more aggressive pad, ie the Comp 9. With the RB74s i use to use it wasnt a problem, the compound seemed to have masked the problem.

So current thinking is that the pad sitting on the outer edge of the rotor is doing all the work, rather then the full face fo the pad, and for one...its overhating the reduced surface patch of the rotor...and two the pad had more knock off whuch is resulting in the spongy pedal.

So will have to have a closer look over the weekend, in the morning the car is being trial fitted with 6 pot APs and 343mm rotors, to see if they fit in my 17" wheels. If they do its food for thought, but the money would be better spent actually driving the car at the track, so what if the pedal doesnt feel as good:(

Isnt the OEM item like $440 ish though, versus the $70 for the aftermarket item?
Try $200 to get your master cylinder sent away, sleeved, re-fitted or $450ish to get a brand new oem from Nissan Japan.

I've been there done that, no thanks... took a brand new oem to fix my issues.

$450! where are you guys shopping. Picked up a newie s14 master and a new slave 3 weeks ago for $130 from Nissan. Minor mods to the lines were required for the master and the thread had to be shortened to get the adjustment due to the cylinder being set a bit further back but the bore size is the same, total travel is the same.

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