Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone had this expereince with there skyline.i have had this steering shimmy through my steering wheel at 100-110khm.i have replaced caster rod bushes and also had one wheel allighnment and two wheel balances on front wheels also i have levered and check for play in balljoints etc also had a look at steer rack bushes i found a bit of movement in them so i brought some aftermarket bushes they are whiteline they looked the same except the original bushes had rubber moulded around steel band and whiteline bushes were straight out rubber the guy said that they are for r33 but same for r34,anyway i installed bushes and tested for movement found it to be the same is this movement normal to skyline it moves aproximately 3mm from left to right or are the bushes different from r33 to r34,the bushes that were orginally fitted on right side on rack is a two piece rubber coated steel bush on left side just rubber ring,by the way the shimmy still very much there. hope some one can answer my question

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67601-r34-steering-shimmy/
Share on other sites

they are about half worn but dont want to replace them as yet as i want to get 18" rims with 235 on rear and 225 on front cost about $2000 to do so saveing up at moment but hate the shimmy as it affects handling and lane changing at 100 khm .the other thing im suspect is the offset of the rims ive got but dont quite no how to measure this to find out does any body no how to do this.

I had the same prob on my GTt. The only thing that fixed it was Hub locaters. To save money, most wheel makers dont change hub sizes they just change stud patterns on their wheels to fit differant cars. Hub locaters are just plastic inserts you knock in the back of your wheel. This leaves no gap between the wheel and hub.

One thing to note though. If you have been driving with that shudder for a while you will probably need to get new tires. The problem stayed with me untill I got new rubber as well as the hub locaters. I think the shudder sends the tire out of shape.

This may not be your problem but it worked for me.

Craig

It has been my experience that speed related vibration is nearly always a balance problem. Have you had the tyre balance checked on the car? That will determin if it's a fitting problem, it will also eliminate other out of balance items like brake rotors. It may also be worthwhile trying the rear wheels on the front, even if it is only for a short drive down the highway.

I have noticed a tendency lately for tyre shops to only balance to the outside of the rim. I always have mine balanced inside and outside. Some brands of tyre are well known for having this problem.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
×
×
  • Create New...