Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Phoungy, what's up????

It probably would just make it easier to buy a manual, instead of having it converted from automatic, but if you want to go that way read through this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=63000

The difference in price between manual & auto would probably be lost with the conversion price anyway, although you would have new components.

just read the thread, but im really serious importing a 4 door skyline, prob is most of them are autos, hence manuals are rare and expensive.

it is an option that im willing to take since auto arent thrashed as bad as some manuals, but if any1 knows any local workshop that does it, plz help out.

I'm in the process of importing a 4 door manual R32. Just be pacient, look through the auctions for a suitable one put a bid on and wait. It may take a while to find one but you'll be happy when you buy one, that you spent the time looking.

Took me 2 months to find a suitable one through trying and bidding on an average of 1 car every week and I'm happy that I did. We'll just have to wait and see what condition it is actually in. :)

Thanks for the plug Bam Da Man but that is for a 180sx or R32.

The box alone for an R33 GTS-T is around $1300-$1500 plus all the parts so the conversion would be closer to the $3-$3.5K depending on clutch.

Cheers

Ken

I did a manual conversion on my r33 and did it all my self... It is a fairly easy job to do and works out cheap if you do it the way i did it.........

I ordered a 33 halfcut (manual) from a place in wangara (pm if you want the details as this place doesnt like to be known about) for about $3500, swaped boxes and sold the halfcut here for $3500!!

The conversion is simple, you and a few mates can change the flywheel and lift the box in. The pedal box is a bit fidgity but if you persist its all ok. You dont have to remove any of the computers as it all adapts well.

The only electrical things you have to sort out are the reverse lights, speedo and neutral start switch (which i just looped together), But i have the way i did it written down if you need it.

Everthing else just bolts in (except for a hole you need to drill for the master cylinder)..... And the beauty of a halfcut is you have all bits to make yours a complete manual.... nuts, bolts, correct dash, centre console, gear boot etc etc.....

Saved me 5000 when purchasing the car, not that i wanted the manual at the time, it just happened that i annihilated the auto haha :)

Mike

SL33KGTS thanks for that advice, seems like a good idea and might save me sum cash in the long run cuz i might need sum extra parts in the future.

as for swapping it mysef, the only clutch &tranny i ever replaced is on a datsun (81) and that just a straight swap of the tranny and clutch that requires a shit load of upper strenght, becuase i didnt have a ramp.

dont get me wrong, i love doing things myself, but i doubt ill know how to get the peddal in there. and plus i doubt i have the rite tools

cheers guyz

Ps G0DF4Th3R whats ken's number

I had my four done bout 3 months ago. Can't conplain just a few simple things to iron out yet. Like when u convert using a auto speedo it reads 60 kms at 110. I just put a manual speedo cluster in and now 120kms is 110 accordin to gps. Also still got to get the reverse lights hooked up.I got a r34 box put in and it has cost me around the 3g mark but i couldn't be happier. Still worked out cheaper for me to do this then buy and manual and i have a 34 box ;) so much nicer. I have a Phone number of a guy that can do the conversion if u are intrested.

The autos in the 33 are extremely strong and i know of a few with stage 2 shift kits and 2.5 to 3 stalls....

From factory they have a failsafe function to prolong life. Everytime the trany shifts, the computer causes a missfire in the fuel/ingnition system so that no power transfers through the box at that time.... it sucks badly.... but i found a way around it: pump the gas pedal just before change (ie off then on) and she used the smoke into 2nd!!

Another advantage is the snow mode. The snow mode stops the use of 1st gear (unless you are manually in 1st) for slippery conditions..... so when you stall it up, put the stick in 2nd and it stalls in 2nd...... more boost no spin. When the light goes green, drop it into 1st and you'll have full boost. It is litterally like dropping the cluch in a manual ;)

Unfortunately as a consequence i destroyed the box after 6 months of hard driving..... unlucky hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...