Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Phoungy, what's up????

It probably would just make it easier to buy a manual, instead of having it converted from automatic, but if you want to go that way read through this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=63000

The difference in price between manual & auto would probably be lost with the conversion price anyway, although you would have new components.

just read the thread, but im really serious importing a 4 door skyline, prob is most of them are autos, hence manuals are rare and expensive.

it is an option that im willing to take since auto arent thrashed as bad as some manuals, but if any1 knows any local workshop that does it, plz help out.

I'm in the process of importing a 4 door manual R32. Just be pacient, look through the auctions for a suitable one put a bid on and wait. It may take a while to find one but you'll be happy when you buy one, that you spent the time looking.

Took me 2 months to find a suitable one through trying and bidding on an average of 1 car every week and I'm happy that I did. We'll just have to wait and see what condition it is actually in. :)

Thanks for the plug Bam Da Man but that is for a 180sx or R32.

The box alone for an R33 GTS-T is around $1300-$1500 plus all the parts so the conversion would be closer to the $3-$3.5K depending on clutch.

Cheers

Ken

I did a manual conversion on my r33 and did it all my self... It is a fairly easy job to do and works out cheap if you do it the way i did it.........

I ordered a 33 halfcut (manual) from a place in wangara (pm if you want the details as this place doesnt like to be known about) for about $3500, swaped boxes and sold the halfcut here for $3500!!

The conversion is simple, you and a few mates can change the flywheel and lift the box in. The pedal box is a bit fidgity but if you persist its all ok. You dont have to remove any of the computers as it all adapts well.

The only electrical things you have to sort out are the reverse lights, speedo and neutral start switch (which i just looped together), But i have the way i did it written down if you need it.

Everthing else just bolts in (except for a hole you need to drill for the master cylinder)..... And the beauty of a halfcut is you have all bits to make yours a complete manual.... nuts, bolts, correct dash, centre console, gear boot etc etc.....

Saved me 5000 when purchasing the car, not that i wanted the manual at the time, it just happened that i annihilated the auto haha :)

Mike

SL33KGTS thanks for that advice, seems like a good idea and might save me sum cash in the long run cuz i might need sum extra parts in the future.

as for swapping it mysef, the only clutch &tranny i ever replaced is on a datsun (81) and that just a straight swap of the tranny and clutch that requires a shit load of upper strenght, becuase i didnt have a ramp.

dont get me wrong, i love doing things myself, but i doubt ill know how to get the peddal in there. and plus i doubt i have the rite tools

cheers guyz

Ps G0DF4Th3R whats ken's number

I had my four done bout 3 months ago. Can't conplain just a few simple things to iron out yet. Like when u convert using a auto speedo it reads 60 kms at 110. I just put a manual speedo cluster in and now 120kms is 110 accordin to gps. Also still got to get the reverse lights hooked up.I got a r34 box put in and it has cost me around the 3g mark but i couldn't be happier. Still worked out cheaper for me to do this then buy and manual and i have a 34 box ;) so much nicer. I have a Phone number of a guy that can do the conversion if u are intrested.

The autos in the 33 are extremely strong and i know of a few with stage 2 shift kits and 2.5 to 3 stalls....

From factory they have a failsafe function to prolong life. Everytime the trany shifts, the computer causes a missfire in the fuel/ingnition system so that no power transfers through the box at that time.... it sucks badly.... but i found a way around it: pump the gas pedal just before change (ie off then on) and she used the smoke into 2nd!!

Another advantage is the snow mode. The snow mode stops the use of 1st gear (unless you are manually in 1st) for slippery conditions..... so when you stall it up, put the stick in 2nd and it stalls in 2nd...... more boost no spin. When the light goes green, drop it into 1st and you'll have full boost. It is litterally like dropping the cluch in a manual ;)

Unfortunately as a consequence i destroyed the box after 6 months of hard driving..... unlucky hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲
    • Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.  
    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
×
×
  • Create New...