Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anybody had any drama's with there knock sensors? on RB20's in particular

One of mine seems to be playing up and reading all over the shop, so much so that I have replaced my fuel pump as I thought it was fuel pressure related

I think I may have giving one a bit of a tweak ages ago while installing my oil cooler kit

My tuner says that everything is way conservative and the knock sensor is reading detonation (not consitsantly either) but there are no signs of detonation, and it happlily supports a extra 6 degree's timing before tell tale puffs of unburnt fuel from the exhaust, so its a long way off detonation, AFR's are low 11's

Everyhting has been checked, plugs, fuel pressure etc

I also had a new exhaust made up and we think that maybe the earth for the welder may have been positioned closely to one of the sensors (we can't remember) Would this cause damage?

Thanks in advance, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67674-dodgy-knock-sensor/
Share on other sites

I had a problem with my knock sensors when i first got the car, it was a problem with the wiring, had a breakage in the wire cause the ecu to have abit of a fit and fart past 5000rpm. Took it to my mechanic and he rewired the knock sensors back to the ecu for me.

Now i have a pfc and my knock has never gone over 35 with the base map.

George

Well its funny, as it has a quick flash up to about 70-75 at around 6000rpm from what Shaun was saying, but its definatly not detonating at all just showing up on the knock sensor :confused: Other than that is between 20-25? Also if I go over a pothole it shows knock of about 50? Something tells me the sensor may have a dodgy connection....

Will have to try the spare sensors I have, hopefully fixes it up

Can running good though, 1.3bar making 197rwkw and feels very strong on the road. I think my turbo might struggle to get to 220rwkw, but its heaps of fun like it is..........I am sure the driver of the Evo4 I surprised the other day can attest to this.........:P

yeah, pothole is what made me think last night that it must be a knock sensor problem, as Shaun said it would take 3 more degree's timing before it would start to show signs of detonation

By the looks of it, it's indeed a 2510, thought it may have been 2540/30 but it was the old tune that made it laggy, now its making boost at around 2000rpm and depending on what gear, on full boost by 3300-4000rpm so its very responsive now

If you get a knock reading of 22 on startup in the morning is that a dodgy knock sensor?

I also got readings of 122 on a cruise through kinglake in 5th gear, crusiing at around 70km/h tryin to prevent compressor surge, every time it fluttered my engine light flashed and i got a reading of around 120..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...