Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

me again :P

turns out u just yank on the cable and out the fuel pump comes....

last question this time.. for sure...

im just seeing how it all reattachs now..Im just not sure do i just hookup the rubber fuel pipe directly to the pump and bypass the gold pipes on the brackets ?

Also when i mount it with some rubber to stop the vibrations.. is that the vibrations between the pump and the mounting bracket.. or the pump and fuel tank

thanks again :)

oh yeah.. i've included a pic so you all know what im on about :

post-19018-1124802418.jpg

Edited by justin911
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

justin i just re-read the guide i think it has all been covered in there.

see point 10

"10. you will notice that the pump won't fit directly onto the cradle without cutting or bending the existing metal fuel pipe, so i trimmed mine with a hacksaw and smoothed off any rough edges. "

No..

for ignition to occur, there needs to be a steady supply of fresh oxygen to burn, which you will not find in a fuel tank as its largely pressurised (hear that hiss when u open the fuel lid?). Also there shouldn't be any spark if you have connected everything securely, and using proper connectors and nothing is grounding/rubbing itself on nearby metal.

Also - it requires a fair spark to set off ignition, otherwise every time you got out of your car at a petrol station you'd be at risk of blowing it up due to static electricity.

The factory pump actually has bare exposed neg terminal anyhow.

and I'm in IT as well :D

cool thanks heaps for that info :D makes me a feel a bit safer.

so going by that, just to double check for the last time.. if the + terminal on the stock pump wasnt covered it would be all cool though anyways yeah as long as it would securely done like you said ???

im so close to completing it now :D were going on day 3 of the saga.....

just need to get some of those connector things to crimp on the wires and stick it all back in and i'll be done... hopefully :(

thanks

i finaly have my bosch 040 fuel pump installed and working !!!!!!

Now I can proceed to the final step in the installation... get the blood transfusion/skin grafs :D

thanks sooo much for all your help guys, I realy realy appreciate it :)

ya the 040 doesnt need it.

is it possible after installing the new fuel pump im using more petrol now ?

the fuel meter indicator thingy seems to still be alright.

should i just stop looking at it perhaps ?

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm installing mine this weekend, thanks for the detailed guide Wolverine

Does it matter if there is a full tank of fuel in the car? or is it better to change the pump when the fuel level is low?

Also does it affect the low fuel light operation in any way? Because the 040 doesnt have a sock should I be worried about running out of fuel before the low fuel light comes on?

i found that it was easier with a near empty tank.

as far as i understand the fuel light function will be unchanged so if you mount the 040 too high you might have issues. if you mount the pump as low as you can get it (presumably by modifying/cutting the bracket) you should have no issues.

note: that i used the 984 pump but the mods have changed the thread name as it is very close to the same with the exception that the 984 has a hose end vs the open end on the 040.

good luck with the install genghis.

Man the R33 tank must be different to the R34 tank... when I did my install, we had to engineer a custom intake "sock" using a stainless reducer and silicon hose in order to reach the bottom of the tank?!?

Left alone, the car would start to surge with about a quarter tank left ;) Anyways, it's fine now - didn't cost much to make up and at least it's another "custom" item in the car LOL

Yeah, mid-way through the 040 install we were kicking ourselves too... we should've just gotten the 044 and used the stock pump as a pre-pump into the 044 and then into a surge tank setup!

Much less hassle, much easier to setup!

Guys, I got it installed successfullly

I only used three band aids and no need for skin grafts. It was an absolute BITCH of a JOB. Minor cuts nothing major.

Anyway had some dramas with my alarm because i disconnected the battery but now I can start the car.

The pump sits as low as i can get it. I modified the bracket by straightening the bottom holder and clamping the pump on that. The wires needed to be made longer and I heat shrinked the connections.

Its actually a very quiet pump, when idle you cant hear it at all. It is noisy when priming though but I like that sound.

Cheers the the guide, it came in very handy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My purchase experience was no where near as glorious as yours but still a significant moment in my life! Yeah that's a bit of a dilemma as to whether you bring it back or not!  Obviously a massive waste of time and effort to bring it back if you're only going to move there anyway!
    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
×
×
  • Create New...