R32 GTR.....questions.

[PSI_GTSII]

Well like everyman and his dog I am in the process of picking up an R32 GTR from Japan atm. (Thru Prestige)

Anywho...I probably should have asked these questions before laying down the readies but...

1. I believe removal of a fuse is all thats required for 2WD / 4WD, can this be rigged up to an In Cab switch?

2. If so generally how strong is the rear diff, at handling this sorta stuff.

3. What is the Maximum performance (HP @ Wheels) I can expect with Factory comp, Turbos, injectors & IC...and which is the weakest link?

4. What would be required for 400-450HP @ wheels?

5. And what are the most common problems assc with the GTR mechanically.

Any help appriciated as I am sure these questions are asked all the time

Cheers

Lindsay

[always_me]

get some cash and youll have big power, without it your screwed.

[Sneaker]

1. Yes

2. Bomb-proof

3. 300hp (give or take engine healthiness and if you run a safe boost) Big cash not required

4. Turbos, clutch, injectors, exhaust (turbo back), remap or aftermarket computer

5. Clutch, clutch, clutch!

[PSI_GTSII]

1. Yes

2. Bomb-proof

3. 300hp (give or take engine healthiness and if you run a safe boost) Big cash not required

4. Turbos, clutch, injectors, exhaust (turbo back), remap or aftermarket computer

5. Clutch, clutch, clutch!

1. Excellent

2. Great

3. Hmm...pretty average..will have to work on that!

4. Not to bad...would High flowed standard turbos do the trick?

5. Ah..ha...well I guess its better than a Gearbox

Thx mate

[Morgs]

5) Standard oil pump drive on the drive, get a JUN collar if you don't want to rebuild the motor

[PSI_GTSII]

Replace the pump or fit engine oil cooler..?

[Morgs]

The standard drive on the crank isnt wide enough to engage the standard oil pump properly.... which would have to be one of the biggest reasons so many early RB26s die. Its an engine out job as the collar has to be machined onto the crank, upgrade oil pump to N1 and then you will be ok

[Zenith]

1. Yes a switch can be attched to the fuse to make it 2WD/4WD. Check out Autospeed.com.au there is a good article on there regarding the 4WD set up where he puts a dial to adjust the amount of torque transfer in differnt conditions.

2. Rear diffs are pretty hardcore, unless your being stupid with it, you should be right.

3. You'll get 300-320hp from a pretty standard (engine wise) Gtr, the turbos are only good for 1bar and usally the rear wheel breaks off over that, esp in 15yr old cars, so get rid of them asap. Usally the standard clutch and oil pump are pretty crap so get rid of them. The standard oil pump flows around 23lts at 6000rpm, a Hks or N1 oil pump will flow closer to 50ltrs at 6000rpm. So upgrade this.

4. For 400-450whp first thing i would suggest here is an engine rebuild. Although standard RB26's have been known to handle more, you are not dealing with a brand new engine here and getting more power out of an older engine you are starting to push its boundaries. But if it anit broke then dont fix it, so go ahead and mod it untill it dies. how long it will last is anyone's guess.

After that your looking at more general stuff, so upgrading exhaust, dumps, filters, then move on to bit more technical things. Turbo's, either n1 ball bearing's or 2530's get the 2530's these are awsome turbos and can handle good amounts of boost. Pushing over 400whp every thing starts to max out fuel system wise. The injectors are 444cc and can only flow around 530hp at the engine. (theres an equation somewhere on here that will tell you that.) Factor in about 25% loss to the wheels that brings you up with 400hp at the wheels before they max out.So upgrade to some 600-700cc ones.

Afm's will also max out at 400whp, so upgrade them too either Z32's with 80mm inlets i think or Rb25 ones which are only 72mm i think, still an upgrade but might as well go all out and get Z32 ones. The intercooler can flow enough air for over 400whp, but i have seen allot of people change tham around that mark. From my research the standard fuel pump is usally pretty good for this amount of power and im really not sure when a new one is needed. If you want bigger get a bosch 044 i think they are good for like 325 LHP @ 50 PSI, (correct me if im wrong please)

Next up grade would probally be a Power Fc, great Ecu's and plug into the standard harness, propper tunning of all this power should put you easily into the 400-500whp mark depending on boost settings.(get and adjustable boost controller for this, great fun)

5. Most common problem, probally Hicas, but thats with all skylines. For some reason who ever developed this system decided to put every fault to relay back to the hicas light. And when the system does go foul, travelling over 100km p/h can be scary. Quick fix, pull the 4pin plug out of the hicas computer under the parcel shelf. Long/proper/expensive fix, track down an ecu consult, plug it in and let it tell you all the problems and then fix them.

So once all that is done you should have a nice car with good power. Dont expect to have much money left though unless you have lots of it.

[Boosting]

1. Pull the fuse for lots of wheels spining fun

2. Have not broken my diff yet and i like to do burn outs and rev limiter launchs,, HEHEEHE

3. Mine made 331hp on 14psi with 4" zorst nothing else

4. N1's hks 2530 or 2540's with proper support system ie fuel comp yadda yadda

5. CLUTCH did i say CLutch amd now have a prob with a valve guide in the engine ticking its head off but i have a replacement head of a 33 GTR.

Have fun and remember simple things like oil changes keep the thing alive, you would be best to change everything as soon as u get it, gearbox oils diff oils brake fluid you gewt the idea better to be safe then sorry and spark plugs cause of alot power lose to if they are ****ed

[PSI_GTSII]

Some awesome posts there guys just what I was looking for Thx

I know I should use the money I get from the sale of my R31 on something sensible like the morgage but I can see 90% will get pumped into the 32!