Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am waiting for my r33 s2 ( my third skyline) to arrive from Japan and need some help in regards to the steps to take in modding the car, i dont want to produce a number on a dyno, but rather i want a quicker car. I realise that money plays a massive role, but what would be a good step by step approach?

So far car has Full exhaust and Filter.

Any Advice would be appreciated,

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/
Share on other sites

cold air intake kit for the pod filter, dont leave it unshielded

get a cheap 2nd hand ebc

powerfc is a great mod, gets rid of the stock ecu limits and you can tune it nonstop

getting a fmic should drop the temps a bit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/#findComment-1257328
Share on other sites

Leave the stock air box, no power gained by pod.

No particular order:

-Exhaust

-I.C.

-Bleed valve (increase boost)

-Suspension

-sway bars & bushes

-brake pads and fluid

-ECU (Pfc/wolf/etc)

I propably missed a few, but these will burn a big enough hole in your pocket :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/#findComment-1257665
Share on other sites

...........cam gears (aparently there is a 15kw gain here) .......

More like only 3-5kw, at the rear wheels. Also if you gain these kw at the top end you loose some reponse down low, and vis-versa. These would be my last performance mod, hence why i did not mention it in my list :).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/#findComment-1257917
Share on other sites

More like only 3-5kw, at the rear wheels.  Also if you gain these kw at the top end you loose some reponse down low, and vis-versa.  These would be my last performance mod, hence why i did not mention it in my list :).
I would actually put these directly after getting a full exhaust. See my results here for a more accurate response to getting ex cam gears fitted.

My before/after review here Not bad for a $150 part.

cam-ba-small.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/#findComment-1258055
Share on other sites

Awesome guys,

Have decided on getting the power fc off ebay (about $1200 delivered), got full adj suspension (GAB) and sway bars with 18" Advan wheels on car and getting FMIC also prob from ebay? Is this the best place to look? Where to buy Ex cam Gears and are they expensive to fit?

With the Boost controll i have sourced an Apexi variable elect boost cont but will this work with the power fc?

Also how much does a Power fc cost to tune and where to get done in syd for best result?

Once again thankyou all for your contribution

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/#findComment-1258466
Share on other sites

nengun have powerfc for $1013 delievered, dont buy it from ebay

nengun have ex cam gears for about $150 not sure how much fitting is

the apexi powerfc boost controller kit is an addon for the powefc, its $374 from nengun also. it wont work without the powerfc but its a fully featured ebc which hooks into the standalone engine management. powerfc tune can start at $350 and go from there. check out the powerfc faq if you any questions regarding it, its under the tutorials / howto section. try and avoid buying stuff from ebay theres been a few people being burnt from purchases from there, nengun is much more trusted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67783-r33-mods-process/#findComment-1258484
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...