Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've heard it is a wise move, particularly on a 15yr old vehicle. I've looked through the service manual, and all I can see is remove the caliper and check for corrosion, remove and inspect the pistons, change piston seals, grease and reassemble.

Have I missed something or is this it? When guys say that had the caliper overhauled and found out that only 2 of 8 pistons were moving, how do you fix it? Lube??

Finally, is it a job for the home mechanic? I remember reading that the DIY overhaul kit was super exy (from Nissan). I'm happy to have a go provided specialised tools are not required.

Any info appreciated, search came up pretty dry.

Thanks

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67830-what-is-a-caliper-overhaul/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Excessive heat will cause O-rings to bind on pistons. Not changing fluid causes corrosion.

Seal Kits are expensive... but not as expensive as Liberace'ing someone!

Check WRX Calliper kits if they fit (R32 - MY02) have similar sumitomo callipers.

If you are technical, and thorough.. DIY is OK. Need Compressor and some "Brake-Clean" to...

Hope this helps.

TT

GTST calipers, and most likley non Brembo GTR calipers use the same seal kit as OZ deleivered Z32 300ZX and S14 200SX so seal kit is less then $100.

One thing , i have been looking at 2nd hand sets of calipers, and also new, and it appears various calipers can have 3-4 times the flex once they get a few years on them, especially monobloc calipers. (4thou of flex later measured to be 22thou:()

So perhaps consider how much heat cycles have been thru the calipers (street/track??), how many kms as well. I doubt it will couint for squat unless you are chasing the nth degree of performance from your caliper, but im curious to know if calipers do have a finite life????

I've heard it is a wise move, particularly on a 15yr old vehicle. I've looked through the service manual, and all I can see is remove the caliper and check for corrosion, remove and inspect the pistons, change piston seals, grease and reassemble.

Have I missed something or is this it?

That's basically it.
When guys say that had the caliper overhauled and found out that only 2 of 8 pistons were moving, how do you fix it? Lube??
The overhaul basically fixes it. What happened in that instance was that brake dust got in under the dust seal, and ended up setting like concrete, totally immobilising the piston.
Finally, is it a job for the home mechanic? I remember reading that the DIY overhaul kit was super exy (from Nissan). I'm happy to have a go provided specialised tools are not required.
Can be done, but might require a bench vice to help hold the calipers while you remove the pistons (when I saw it done, the guy used 2 enormous screwdrivers to lever the pistons out, but just on the bench), and a can of BrakeKleeen or similar. Maybe some very fine (1200) paper to smooth out any little nicks in the pistons. If you are careful, you can re-use the O-rings and seals. Otherwise sus out the brake specialists for a kit.
Any info appreciated, search came up pretty dry.

Thanks

Mark

A seal kit for my R32 GTST front calipers was something like $91 from Nissan thru Race Brakes in Nth Melbourne. (thats both front calipers)

The R32 GTST Sumitomo (spelling??) calipers use the same piston diam as the Sumitomo R32 GTR caliper, so i would be surprised if the R32 GTST seal kit cant be used as well. Ring around your local Nissan dealers to see how much for the Z32 300ZX seal kit and S14 200SX seal kit.

Worst case just courier them to Race Brakes and for $120 all up they will order the seal kit form Nissan (perhaps the get a good trade price) and throw the seal kits in for you. its about 30mins labour for them.:) I think it cost me $120 for the seal kit and install and about $90 for HPC coating of the calipers.

462FR_Caliper_Side-med.JPG

462FR_Caliper_Top-med.JPG

You can get the seal kit and DIY for less then $100 for fonts.

The paint was a bit ordinary on my calipers so i paid the bit extra to have them HPC coated, inlcuding the caliper pitons to try and reduce brake fluid temps. Who knows of it really makes any difference, but the theory seems to be sound:)

So you dont have to have them HPC coated or painted, but i figured if its good enough for Harrop, HSV and FPV then it cant hurt my little calipers, even if it just makes them look neat:)

Roy: I meant $200+ to do all four corners.

I have to change the brake fluid on my car shortly (pedal is mushier than I would like), and thought while I was at it I would change the brake/clutch lines to the braided ones I bought. Then I thought, well, why don't I add a set of SpeedBleeders while I am it? Then it occured to me that perhaps I should also overhaul the master cylinder too. And finally I thought, well, what's good for the master cylinder is probably good for the calipers.... :)

As you can see, things are kind of spiralling out of control. And now your implanting the idea of painting/coating my calipers. Gawd damn.

LW.

But can you ever stop fast enough? Hell if we were talking about going forwards doesnt matter as much, but we are talking about whats potentally the last safty device before the car crashing.

Just spend the money and fix it!

I've just done all 4 calipers on my R32 GTR - new seals and boots. You can get the kits to do front and rear for around $100 through ABS. I posted the kit PN's in another thread sometime back, but will do so again here if needed.

The important thing is to ensure the piston bores are clean and there's no corrosion on the pistons themselves. As someone else suggested use fine emery to clean up the outside of the piston (DON'T use emery on the piston bores). Above all make sure everything is absolutely clean.

I use compressed air to get the pistons out.

Targa Tom, Roy, blink_elk: thanks very much for the info, I'll give it a go myself. Have compressed air, will travel.

SteveL: I searched a while for anything related, but couldn't find the thread where I last read about it - probably the one you're talking about. Could you pls post the PN's and the ABS site/contact details? I'm guessing they're not "Applied Business Solutions" (abs.com.au) :(

Thanks again guys

Mark

Hopefully another couple of handy tips.

Check under the seals to see if you have any buildup underneath them and make sure you clean them out. I used a piece of wire flattened at one end and bent at 90 deg to slowly scrape them out, you can use a Dremmel with a wire brush end if you are carefull.

When using compressed air to blow the pistons out which is a great way to do it, leave the pads in the calipers to stop the pistons flying out and gradually use something thinner as you go along. Last time I did this was on a bike and the piston came out with a bang and went flying across my w/shop.

Scared the shite out of me.

It's not a big job but make sure everything is clean, really clean before you reassemble everything and the hardess part is bleeding the buggers afterwards.

Gary

SteveL: I searched a while for anything related, but couldn't find the thread where I last read about it - probably the one you're talking about. Could you pls post the PN's and the ABS site/contact details? I'm guessing they're not "Applied Business Solutions" (abs.com.au)

ABS = Auto Brake Service, check Yellow Pages for a local franchise.

PN's for the caliper kits are:

Front - SJ6070

Rear - SJ6024

1 kit does an axle set = 2 calipers. I paid $100 total for both kits.

These kits are to suit R32 GTR calipers which are the same as Z32 as well as R32 GTSt and R33, I believe (I can double check in FAST if needed).

Oh and definately take care when using compressed air - only a low setting is needed.

Targa Tom, Roy, blink_elk: thanks very much for the info, I'll give it a go myself. Have compressed air, will travel.

SteveL: I searched a while for anything related, but couldn't find the thread where I last read about it - probably the one you're talking about. Could you pls post the PN's and the ABS site/contact details? I'm guessing they're not "Applied Business Solutions" (abs.com.au) :cheers:

Thanks again guys

Mark

www.autobrakeservice.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...