Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When my car came over from Japan I got it dynoed @ 1 bar as soon as it came over and it made 274rwhp. Then we backed the timing off (to prevent pinging) and turned the boost up to just under 1.2 bar and it made 297rwhp. It did this with the Japanese chipped standard computer that the car came with. The AFR's were off the chart rich as soon as it came on boost and the overall tune was not very tidy at all.

I decided to purchase a AP Engineering Power FC to get the tune spot on and went to get it tuned. On the dyno the fuel and ignition were being played with but the car did not seem to be making decent power. Timing was around 14 and the AFR's around 11.8 with the boost set around 1.2bar. The motor was struggling as soon as it came on boost. At around 4.5k it stopped making power at around 240rwhp and then fluctuated between about 230-250rwhp all the way throught to redline.

It did not seem to be missing but we changed the plugs, changed the AFM with a brand new one and everything seemed to be working fine but the car was just not making power. To check it wasnt anything mechanical I plugged the Japanese remap in and the car once again made decent power so it has to be something to do with the Power FC.

Mods done to the car so far are.

GTR front mount

GTR injectors with resistor pack

Z32 AFM

GTR Fuel Pump

Decent sized Apexi BB Turbo

Auto to Manual Conversion

I have talked to many ppl about the problem and noone seems to be able to shed too much light onto what could be wrong with the tune. Can anyone offer any suggestions on what the problem could be? The only things I can think of is the Auto loom causing some kind of problem as the computer is only meant to be used with a Manual car only.

PLEASE PLEASE HELP. This is total :bs!: and is pissing me off and stressing me out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67913-rb20det-ap-engineering-power-fc-tune/
Share on other sites

As the guys have already suggested, ignition timing would be where I would start. Check it with a timing light at 5,000 rpm with the chipped ecu and compare that to the Power FC at the same RPM.

user posted image

Went and got some runs printed out from the dyno today. The blue shows the power fc tune while the green is half a run with the jap retune, it would have made around about 290rwhp+ with a full run.

The power fc is tuned with afr's about 11.8:1 while the jap tune is a LOT richer than that.

Will test the timing with the light toinght and get back those results tommorrow.

Once again thanks for the help

Looking at the power graph, my first guess would be that the ignition timing is all over the place. Since the boost and A/F ratios are stable, that's the only logical alternative. It's up and down more than 20 rwhp in some places. Very interested in seeing the A/F ratios graph and what happens when you run the timing light over it.:cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...
  '[teejay said:
']try some new knock sensors

i suspect yours have failed, and are retarding the timing coming onto boost

other options : test the power fc in another car to see if thats the cause.

Id doubt it would be them, as chaning ECUs shouldnt change those problems.

It pretty much has to be narrowed down to the ECUs tune and or wiring.

Id also just double check to see if their AFR metre gauge thingy it working correctly, as if that is out, then it would be throwing out their tuning something chronic. (had it kinda happen before, AFR line was fine, just down about 2 on what it should have been ie should have been at 12, but was reading about 10)

  Sydneykid said:
As the guys have already suggested, ignition timing would be where I would start.  Check it with a timing light at 5,000 rpm with the chipped ecu and compare that to the Power FC at the same RPM.

Why do you say to try comparing the timming at 5000rpm not say idle?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...