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32 GTST Idle Problem

eXc

By eXc,
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eXc Mentor

eXc

Posted
Posted

****SOLVED*****

Hey,

Yes I searched :P

Ok, so I just got my 32 GTST on the weekend, and it idles at 1600 RPM.

* I managed to get it down from 2000 by adjusting the TPS using a multimeter and setting it as near to zero as I could get.

* I cleaned the AAC with brake cleaner, and it didn't make a difference (altho it did have a fair bit of black crap in there

* I adjusted what I would call the idle screw (the screw that just pushes the thing the cable attaches to on the throttle body)

* I havn't tried yet, but it was suggested to buy aerostart, and start spraying it around all the vacuum hoses, as if there is a leak, it will suck it in and make the engine rev higher.

So a few questions;

1) I have read that I might need to adjust my IAC....problem is, I searched, and I can't find out what an IAC is...I don't know what the letters stand for, nor where it is on the engine and how to adjust. Could someone please tell me?

2) When I had the AAC off, there is the main hole, with the 'springy thing'. And there is another small hole. That small hole seeminly has nowhere to breathe to when it is attached back onto the engine. Is there supposed to be a hole on the engine?

3) What else could the problem be?

4)It has a stock BOV and a Blitz Bov on it...could this effect it at all?

Thanks in advance

Chris

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Bazelinez Proficient

Bazelinez

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the hi jack but what is the AAC and do you think a dirty one would be causing my R32 to not idle up when cold unless I give it some throttle? How do I clean it and where is it? cheers!

As per topic, make sure the car is getting up to the right temperature, if its not your thermostat could be stuffed so the choke is staying on...

eXc Mentor

eXc

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  • Author
Posted

WazR32GTSt - Hmmm ok I will give that a go, I was adjusting it with it plugged in, however it actually did move the revs, but it is as low as it goes. But I will try.

Bazelinez - Yeah it's working at correct temp, so I don't think that is the problem, but I will keep it in mind. As for the AAC valve, if you search you will find a fair amount on it...that's how I learnt what it was. I will get a photo if I have the chance and post it up here incase you can't find it tho. It's located on the inlet manifold, near the throttle body, it has a brown plug attached to it. You can use brake cleaner or contact cleaner. You may need a new gasket when you take it off ( I didn't but I have read that most do) From what I can tell the AAC valve is the typical thing that cause low idle...not high idle...so it could be your problem.

Anyone know if an exhaust leak or faulty turbo would effect the idle? My turbo (or so I thought) made a whistle as it spooled up...that whistle has gotten louder in the few days I have been driving it. From searching it seems the turbo is gonna die soon, or there is an exhaust leak. I am hoping it's an exhuast leak :rofl:

SupaFly Skyline Experienced

SupaFly Skyline

Posted
Posted
when you adjust the idle screw on the AAC i think you have to take the plug off (should be maroon in colour), then adjust the screw, then replace the plug

cheers,

Warren.

Or just leave the plug off

I have a high idle problem too, it "kinda" got better with cleaning and unplugging the AAC, but then i put a catch can on and found on of the breather hoses had the tiniest split in it, now that the airtight catch can system is in, it idles ok (for now...)

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

Have you checked your air regulator?

It's located on the bottom runners of the inlet manifold, below and slightly behind the throttle body.

They have a disc inside that is rotated by a bimetalic strip that is heated as the motor warms up. When cold a hole in the disc passes air around the throttle body. As it warms and the disc rotates the hole closes and the revs drop.

In my car the pin the disc rotates on fell out and the disc stayed open causing it to idle at 1600-1800rpm. I put the pin back in with some loctite and the idle went back to 650rpm.

eXc Mentor

eXc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Have you checked your air regulator?

Nope! Didn't know it existed, I will do that tonight :D

I also should get the pipe to replace the pipe with the BOV on it, so that should also get rid of the running rich...well I am hoping anyways, one of my friends can't be in the car more than 5 mins without getting a headache from fumes...can't find any leak anywhere, and it backfires heaps, so I assume it's just rich.

Thanks

SkyGTRline Mentor

SkyGTRline

Posted
Posted

Hmmm... i sorta have this prob but diff...

My car when cold i have to touch the throttle to get it to rev up... and also alot of the time when its warm, on idle its all over the place... One second its up normal then it drops and then back up and drops so on... What does this mean?

Also it feels as if when driving and around the 2500-3500 when turbo has cut in, it seems to choke... as if it can go more tha is act is. if you get me?

Anyone know what this could be/

Thanx

JXL Rising Star

JXL

Posted
Posted

my R33 GTST was doing the spike to 1500 idle and i got told to fix the sparkies, Engine temp sensor and thermo stat. $110 in parts.

found i had one dodgy sparky that had all this chalky shit all over it. mechanic friend said this would help with lumpy idle and getting the throttle to engage better.

the temp sensor and the thermostat would help in the car running to rich which it also what the high idle was doing.

now the idle hasn't missed a beat at 800rpm for 3 weeks and i've noticed a 20% better fuel economy.

eXc Mentor

eXc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, i have pulled the air regulator off. this is what it now looks like inside, is this right? does that spring need to go on the post in the pic? It seems right to me, except it stretched the spring to all buggary. It was in a different position when I took it off, and I can't get it back to that position (guessing that pin was out) but it's an effort to get this sucker in/out so I'd like to know it's right before I put it back together.

air.jpg

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