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Guest two.06l
redline...shockproof

redline...shockproof

was that an echo.

use the lightweight(blue) in your gearbox

use the heavyweight(red) in your diff(s)

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If you want to spend $25 a litre...go Redline

If you are strapped for cash, go Fuchs, about $35 for 4 litres (GX 80 I think...have to look in the shed)

I also use Castrol Fully Synthetic diff oil...expensive but worth every penny...2 even black lines all the way

What ever you do, stay well away from Nulon oil additives, better yet, stay away from additives period.

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  • 6 months later...
Hi,

What's one of the better gearbox oils to use on a '96 GTS-T with around 80k on the clock. I was told Motul Gear FF by Merc. Motorsport.

Thanks.

I used Royal Purple Synthetic with some Slick 50. I was happy with it. Changed to Kendall Synthetic and Slick 50. Unbelievable inprovement. I have 156,000km's on car . I was abit worried about synchro's till the change to Kendall.Couldn't recommend Kendall highly enough

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I've got redline oil in the gearbox and diff and they seem decent, although I haven't tried other oils to compare against (exluding the standard oil) :)

I also use Castrol Fully Synthetic diff oil...expensive but worth every penny...2 even black lines all the way

I was always under the impression that the standard diff unit (that actually controls the 1 - 1.5 ability of the diff) in a R33 diff is a sealed unit within the diff, so no matter what oil you use it won't affect it's ability to lock-up or not?

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General recommendation from Shell Aust oil techs is to run a synthetic in any high power/high load application. While you get similar viscosity ratings to mineral gear oils, their lubricating qualities are different, as are their abilities to resist degradation through shearing of the molecular structure.

It seems that most synthetics are "slipperier" and this helps the shift quality even under normal daily driver usage. FWIW, I understand that most/all heavy duty truck manufacturers recommend synthetics due to their qualities and vastly increased service intervals.

So paying the extra $$ should have payoffs. I don't personally think the brand is as important as the formulation (ie synthetic or mineral)

Regarding the oil additives comment, I've recently used a product called Molybond to see how it worked on a possibly worn synchro. The shift quality has improved out of sight, but still assessing whether a rebuild is required. Nulon's product is different, but should deliver the benefits they advertise. A mate has used it with some success. Nulon's packaging specifically states not for use with ester based synthetic oils.

cheers

Dale

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