Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i hate to bring up an old thread, especially one that already has SOO much info in it. i just cant be 100% sure im doing the right thing. and wouldnt want to go ahead without checking :D

post-22805-1161231543.jpg

is that ok to do on an RB20 ?

nothing blocked off, just taking out line that was there and plumbing it through the can ?

Edited by thrtytwo
  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Think about what and where the oil is going... you would be catching the crossover between the breathers... so it would be 50% or a standard setup. I won't say it won't work... it might, I just don't think it would really be much use (especialy for the time, effort and money put in)

block off the ecv, and put the catch can on the other side (leave it plumbed to the I/C). 100% legal, better idling...

Of course, I have yet to do this...

Think about what and where the oil is going... you would be catching the crossover between the breathers... so it would be 50% or a standard setup. I won't say it won't work... it might, I just don't think it would really be much use (especialy for the time, effort and money put in)

block off the ecv, and put the catch can on the other side (leave it plumbed to the I/C). 100% legal, better idling...

Of course, I have yet to do this...

to be honets i dont know what any of the pipes are, this was just the idea i got from what ppl were saying :D and a few pics of RB25s

hate to be a painb, rekon you could whip up a diagram in paint or summin :) ?

pwetty pweese *pouts*

Edited by thrtytwo

Hi Guys,

I am going to put on a 100% atmo catch can and have the filter installed remotely somewhere hidden with extra piping...will this still work?

Also from my sig you can see the pipe connecting the 2 PCV's is altered with an exit hose between them which at present just goes to the firewall and does nothing. Can I replace this pipe with one connected to the catch can? and not have it connected directly to the LHS PCV?

Cheers,

JB

  • 3 months later...
still wondering how to plumb to RB20. can sum1 post a pic of your setup with a greddy style can, or cusco, as long as it only has 2 inlet/oulets and not 3.

Yeah, i want to know as well.......... :P

  • 1 year later...
Think about what and where the oil is going... you would be catching the crossover between the breathers... so it would be 50% or a standard setup. I won't say it won't work... it might, I just don't think it would really be much use (especialy for the time, effort and money put in)

block off the ecv, and put the catch can on the other side (leave it plumbed to the I/C). 100% legal, better idling...

Of course, I have yet to do this...

ecv?which side is his? inlet or exhuast rocker cover side?

can some post a picture up with this setup..

this sounds like the setup im going to do...

more info on his setup would b great..thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys,

i've just installed a catch can on my RB20DET, and did it the wrong way the first time.

the car was pouring out smoke which smelt like burnt oil, so i read up on this topic and followed SydneyKid's 50% plumback diagram:

rb25det50PlumbBack.jpg

i have a couple symptoms though:

the smoke pouring out the exhaust has stopped, but it still seems to have a very slight smell of burnt oil? i'm thinking maybe it's burning off the last bits from the previous installation?

i also noticed a strange ticking type sound which seems to be coming from the plenum area. the noise stops if i squeeze the hose coming from the plenum enough to stop the flow of air.

i've got a drift oil catch can, with 2 top hose fittings, and 1 lower.

i've used the lower one for the plenum, the top ones for the rocker cover (with the original "u" shaped one intact), and the return line for the intake pipe has been blocked.

does anyone have an idea?

Sydneykid where are you?!

thanks,

dave.

Edited by dmr
  • 1 month later...

would it make a difference if i block the line going from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold and then run the other 2 lines to the catch can and plumb them back to the turbo inlet or should i run the manifold pipe through the catch can as well and then a return to the manifold?

  • 7 months later...
Thats ok if you just want to remove oil any oil from entering the intercooler but you should ideally plumb the PCV valve line to the catch can too.

I haven't found a way to do it with a catch can that only has 2 ports. The diagram I've seen is for a RB20 and I've read where people say it works differently between the 2.

Ah, ok. Thanks! So that would mean that I'd have to plug up the cam cover-to-intake ports? There's a post that says it would cause a boost leak if left there (I think).

This is what I was talking about doing: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4337772

But are PCV valves specific? Like, if I get an inline one, will it flow/move the same amount of vapors as the thicker one made for this engine?

Edited by Neejay
  • 3 weeks later...

I'd like to revive this dead thread cause i am confused as hell right now

this is how i have mine hooked up (I got it this way from japan)

tndsc01553rf9.jpg

So i'm thinking about running the atmospheric setup shown on in this thread and putting one of these types of filters between the PCV and the intake manifold, but the one thing that is leaving me in doubt is that some people claim that the atmospheric setup creates a vacuum leak in the system.... So what is it, will it or wont it create a leak?

Catch%20can%20assembly.JPG

i used to use one of those filters on my old car between the pcv and the IM and it worked great, collected allot of oil

Opinions?

I'd like to revive this dead thread cause i am confused as hell right now

this is how i have mine hooked up (I got it this way from japan)

tndsc01553rf9.jpg

So i'm thinking about running the atmospheric setup shown on in this thread and putting one of these types of filters between the PCV and the intake manifold, but the one thing that is leaving me in doubt is that some people claim that the atmospheric setup creates a vacuum leak in the system.... So what is it, will it or wont it create a leak?

Catch%20can%20assembly.JPG

i used to use one of those filters on my old car between the pcv and the IM and it worked great, collected allot of oil

Opinions?

I never got a response, so I'm going to run mine similar to yours, but I'll run 2 hoses separately from the valve covers -> T fitting as close as possible to the catch can -> into the catch can + stainless-steel scrubbing -> and out to the intake pipe. I think I'm going to just cap off the PCV valve and the intake manifold nipple.

Edited by Neejay

the way your describing it makes the catch can sound kinda of pointless really but maybe i'm understanding it wrong

and what benefit would capping the pcv valve rather than than putting a filter like i described have? the way i see it, the pcv valve is there for a reason isnt it?

Edited by MoogLe
the way your describing it makes the catch can sound kinda of pointless really but maybe i'm understanding it wrong

and what benefit would capping the pcv valve rather than than putting a filter like i described have? the way i see it, the pcv valve is there for a reason isnt it?

No, it's basically like what you currently have, but instead of the hose going to the other valve cover, it will go straight towards the catch can, then BOTH valve hoses will combine via T fitting right before going into the catch can.

A filter instead of the PCV valve cap will cause fumes and look less clean, in my opinion. I may try to find a plug and just take out the PCV valve all together.

EDIT: If you have a 2nd picture, I can't see it. What filter thing are you talking about?

Edited by Neejay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
  • Create New...