Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to some misfortune in the form of my turbo oil lines bursting in flames and oil leaking out causing oil starvation, my Turbo bearings are dead. Well atleast Im pretty sure they're dead, the car is not making power on the dyno and there's this high pitch screetching noise from the turbo at idle.

The turbo in question is a HKS 2535 so Im considering my options at the moment, Is it worthed to buy a new bearing cartridge? how much are they and where can I get them from? Or should I just throw this turbo in the bin and go source another one?

Due to some misfortune in the form of my turbo oil lines bursting in flames and oil leaking out causing oil starvation, my Turbo bearings are dead. Well atleast Im pretty sure they're dead, the car is not making power on the dyno and there's this high pitch screetching noise from the turbo at idle.

The turbo in question is a HKS 2535 so Im considering my options at the moment, Is it worthed to buy a new bearing cartridge? how much are they and where can I get them from? Or should I just throw this turbo in the bin and go source another one?

Ring your local turbo shop, is that Per4manz? The 2535 has pretty much a standard Garrett core, so it may be a easy swap job. For a pice comparison give GCG or Ray Hall a call.:)

Thanks SK

I'll do that soon, Is there like a model number for the garrett core Im looking for? or are they the same for most of its turbo range?

I think it's a GT25 core, but the turbo specialsits will know what is a 2535.:)

That scratching noise is probably the turbine hitting the compressor cover, I've had two bearing cartridges collapse in the space of weeks and both needed new bearings and front compressor wheels and needed to go to Garret to be balanced. I got a bit of deal done but you would be looking at close to $800 i figure.

  • 2 weeks later...

Took a look at the turbo today

Bearings definitely dead, the blades would hardly spin

A lot of resistance and a lot of shaft play

I dont see it hitting the compressor cover though

If the blades is only slightly rubbing the compressor cover, would I need to change it? I cant see any physical damage

you'll probably also need to get a new thrust bearing... might as well get a new turbo because all that stuff adds up especially from shops that do it for you. I dont know of any shops that do balancing of the rotating assembly outside of the states, be sure to ask specifically how they balance the parts if you do decide to rebuild.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...