Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, this is my first post here so i dont know weather or not its in the right section of the forums, i was directed here buy some of the boys from the calaisturbo forums. Anyways, heres my situation.

Currently i own a VL calais, running the standard NA RB30 Block. A mate of mine hit his skyline, so i asked him if i could get the topend of it, the cams, turbo, manifolds, all the lines, injectors, injector rail ect ect. So i pretty much have the whole top end.

Being a series 2 calais it has all the holes in the side of the block for the water lines ect ect....I just wanna know if anyone here has done a conversion similar to what im going to be doing, or has any info that can help me out. I wanna know if i can use the same wiring loom thats in my current vl, and what would be the best type of computer to use with my setup, because i was told i cant use the current NA computer.

Its a RB25 top end, twin cam, but im still not sure out of what model skyline it came out of, i saw the offer, and bought it last week for 1000$ including everything ive already mensioned. Now i just wanna know weather or not i can use the same wiring loom, also what would be the best type of computer to buy for it, and where they can be purchased from and for roughly how much they go for, so if i find one im not getting ripped off.

Thanx to anyone that can help, all comments welcome aslong as there not stupid ones. BTW if this is in the wrong section, admins feel free to move it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68334-rb25det-top-end-on-rb30e-bottom-end/
Share on other sites

might want to have a look at the sticky on rb30det at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=15420

there is a good ol 59 pages there at the momment, i'm sure all your answers will be found in there. also give this thread a read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=67624

:rofl:

Have a read of the PDF in my sig.

With regards to the ecu and wiring. Your best bet is to speak to the blokes who have done it on calaisturbo.

You may have to splice in a RB25DET ecu then eventually get a Powerfc, UNLESS straight up off the bat go for an aftermarket management like the wolf.

I would lean towards the wolf3d as feature wise they have all the goodies.

Microtech is ok but doesn't utilize o2 closed loop. O2 sensor to me is a big thing because it makes a noticable difference to fuel economy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...