Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25/VG30 hybrid highflow Turbo?


Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I have purchased a RB25 S2 turbo that I am going to have highflowed along with a 360 Deg Thrust bearing put in. This will be going onto my RB31DET.

My question is. I know that people put the VG30 exhaust housing on the RB25 turbo for a performance increase. Would it be worthwile/feesable for me to put a VG30 exhaust housing on the 25 turbo before it is highflowed?

In my head it seems like an easy way to get just a Little more power out of it. While possibly giving it a little more punch from the 3L bottom end.

I know that this type of set up may cause surging and be a little laggy on a 2.5L but I think it should be fine on a 3L.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anything fitting the VG30 exhaust housing to the stock RB25 CHRA will decerease the chances of surge as it will shift spool to a later rpm where the engine is able to consume more air.

Give it ago. Maybe do a before and after power run just to give us all an indication how the larger a/r reacts with the 3ltr. :rofl:

I sure would be interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In std form the VG 30 ceramic BB turbo or its exhaust housing on the std RB25 ceramic BB turbo could work ok up to the ceramic turbines speed limit . These were fitted to a 3L VG 30 after all .

Be wary of bush bearing hybrids using the VG/RB housings , the ceramic turbine is the only one that really suits them properly . Boring the exhaust housing out butchers the nossle section and it can't work properly . Unfortunately turbos of this size need to run at high shaft speeds to move enough air , and the bush bearing and thrust plate / collar affair won't stand this for too long . Apart from the above options there are no cheap answers .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why would u have an RB31DET and put that skanky turbo in it? Why would any1 go to all that trouble and waste it on such a turbo?

Put a big daddy 35/40 700hp roller on it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Disco: - I am getting the Rb25 turbo highflowed - that means 360degree thrust bearing. new seals - steel wheels - bored out etc etc. I want to put the VG30 exhaust housing on the turbo to give it even more go again.

Abused: Most of the reasons as above. I want it to go straight onto the car with minimal fuss. I'm not interested in a stupidly big turbo that takes ages to spool. This is my daily driver. I drive it to work and back home. Some weekends me and my girlfriend go away in it. Every now and then it will be off to the drags/track. Thats about it. The fact that it looks 100% stock as well. The truth is a Std high flow puts out 450hp. Hopefully just putting this extra bit on gives 470-520 hp (hope/guess) that is more than enough with my other mods for the streets.

Thanks guys please keep the info coming

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why would u have an RB31DET and put that skanky turbo in it? Why would any1 go to all that trouble and waste it on such a turbo?

Put a big daddy 35/40 700hp roller on it!

That skanky turbo could very well make 250rwkw. :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Disco: - I am getting the Rb25 turbo highflowed - that means 360degree thrust bearing. new seals - steel wheels - bored out etc etc. I want to put the VG30 exhaust housing on the turbo to give it even more go again.

Whilst i think plan bearing turbos are fine, if you have a ball bearing turbo, i dont see the sense when getting it rebuilt going to a 360deg thrust bearing setup? Other then expense of course, but there are places aroudn that do BB as well and are only a $200 more:) (approx)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cubes: That's the hope :) a skanky little 250rwkw :rofl: (or more if possible :P)

I was recommended the 360 deg thrust bearing setup as it should make more reliable power. That's really why I am/was going with it. The other option was a 270 deg thrust bearing that would be cutting down the life of the turbo and the power.

I will ask about getting it BB set up as well.

Thanks for the advice roy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends how much you can get it all for.. If you are buying from a jap wrecker you are better off getting your current turbo highflowed.

A little while back when I had the RB20t jap wreckers were asking around $700 for an RB25 turbo & $500 for a VG30DET BB turbo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey mate

I picked up a blowen R33 S2 turbo for $100

Have seen a few places that sell the rear housing for about $100-150

The highflow job with the 360deg thrust bearing is costing aprox $1300

After all of this I will still have my current RB25 turbo to bolt onto my mates R32. So that will bring the cost down a little

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

doesnt seem worth it, maybe pay a little extra and get a garret 450-500hp roller??

I understand now why u wouldnt want to thow a huge turbo on it. My mates got heaps of power with a big turbo and its not as driveable as u probably want it to be!

All the best anyways!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who is doing this stuff for you? The whole 270 degree vs 360 degree thrust bearing durability argument is kinda pointless if the shop that's doing it for you doesn't low-speed and high-speed balance the rotating assemblies for you, and you're going to be spinning it past its efficiency range anyways. Especially with the ceramic wheels, overspinning will lead do very premature failure. I'd say, save your money and get a real ball bearing turbo (not a single ball bearing unit with a thrust bearing), that is properly matched to the engine. You know we DO make turbos smaller than a GT40R... And it seems that for the prices you are saying, you could be coming close to just buying a new gt28R or gt25R with the t25 flange that will bolt right up anyways.

I'd say unless the shop you're doing this at is VERY reputable with turbos, you're only buying a temporary solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And it seems that for the prices you are saying, you could be coming close to just buying a new gt28R or gt25R with the t25 flange that will bolt right up anyways.  

I'd say unless the shop you're doing this at is VERY reputable with turbos, you're only buying a temporary solution.

Rb25 and vg30 turbo's are T3 flanged and we have pretty reputable shop's doing this sorta stuff out here eg. GCG..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I've got both a vg30 and r34 gtt turbo that i'm measuring up.

It appears the elbow from the r34 turbo will indeed bolt up to the vg30 turbo. The RB20DET elbow definitely won't.

I am unsure of the R33 rb25det turbo's elbow.

I've also discovered as have some others, that the R34 GTT turbo has the exact same size turbine housing as the VG30DET turbo.

sThe only difference between the two is that the R34 turbo runs a slightly larger compressor BUT it does have a anti-surge ring or what ever its called located in the snout which reduces efficiency.

Stock vs stock I'm not really sure which is better.

Larger compressor with an anti-surge ring or slightly smaller compressor without the surge ring.

Could you please do me a favour and measure the r33 rb25det turbine housing as the following pic illustrates and post the results?

Even just by using a ruler with a sharp eye will be good enough. :P

For example the cross section width of the rb20det turbo is ~45mm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would never LS an R32 either. I do have truly evil thoughts about VK56s or the Toyo V12s out of New Zealand though. Very hard to justify for my daily....
    • Oh no. There's heaps. A whole lot of them are legitimately handling/installation problems. The material used in the L19 bolts is susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement and must be kept well oiled and not handled without gloves, etc etc. There have been many failures of these from people who didn't realise. There may also have been failures caused by conditions inside the engine (say, head gasket failures?) and people didn't realise that that was probably a death warrant. But that's the L19 material. The ARP 2000s are not made of the same stuff and are more forgiving. But from what I gather there have been occasions where the head has pulled off of one, and non-one can say that the installation was at fault (given good torque records), etc etc, but maybe just maybe the face of the rod shoulder where the bolt head sits wasn't actually perfectly square to the bore of the hole...and loaded up the head with a torque across it and.... ping! I've head stories of bolt heads being found in corners of workshops or in the bottom of sumps even without starting and running the engine! Trouble is, it is really hard to sort the true material failures from the handling/installation failures. It's worse than human medicine. You can only run the experiment once, and you can't run it backwards in time to look at the rod before it became a modern sculpture.
    • In my experience with maxspeed rods, it was not that the ARP rod bolts were "fake" but they are made under licence from ARP, rather than made directly by ARP. Not the same thing and quite likely to have more quality variations, let's be realistic. I haven't had any issues with mine.  I daresay look hard enough, there would be some failures of genuine ARP products too though? Even if very few.
    • Haha honestly the thought crossed my mind but skylines are so damn rare here someone would probably hang me 😂    I’ve had a few LS swapped cars (280zx and a foxbody mustang) so trying something a bit different this time 
    • Not much info in that request..... If you have a VIN you could look up the factory part number here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan
×
×
  • Create New...