Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls

At the moment i need to take out my Wolf 3D and place the standard computer back in and get it running.

I have the standard one in now and it will fire up for half a sec and then stalls straight away. If i give it a bit of revs to keep it running, it feels as if the timing is out.

Two things were changed under the bonnet (that i have noticed). Could any of these have anything to do with not running?

1. line going to the computer for boost controller (Its now blocked)

2. hose cut at the boost solenoid

Please help as i have to have it running by tomorrow morning with the standard Computer in.

I will have pictures in about an hour up

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68380-help-worf-3d-to-standard-computer/
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem the first time i fired mine up after the engine swap. Turned out to be the fuel pump speed control wasn't plugged into the dropping resistor and so when the ecu wanted to drop the fuel pump speed at idle it would stall.

An easy solution to the problem if you cant find the resistor is to chop the wire at the ecu for the fuel pump speed control and it will have the fuel pump work at the normal speed all the time.

Do you know which wire is for the fuel pump? where should the resister be located? The AFM was used with the wolf 3d so it shouldnt be that.

http://users.tpg.com.au/tjosephs/01010006a.JPG

this one has the blue tube that was added and the boost solenoid tube cut

http://users.tpg.com.au/tjosephs/01010007a.JPG

this one had a T piece put in then goes to the wolf but its blocked at the other end

Thanks for your help, shouldnt be to long before i can get it going now

I noticed when they put the wolf in my car that my tuner turned the CAS (round thingy in front of the exhaust cam) fully anti-clockwise and tuned it from there. So check your CAS too since that determines the base timing for the standard ECU.

I noticed when they put the wolf in my car that my tuner turned the CAS (round thingy in front of the exhaust cam)  fully anti-clockwise and tuned it from there. So check your CAS too since that determines the base timing for the standard ECU.

The CAS hasnt been moved since i got the car, but i will have another check tomorrow morning.

The reason im changing it back, is I have to travel over to Adelaide and im pretty sure i cant get BP98 all the way over.

Is there a way of changing something on the wolf so that i can travel with normal premium?

You could retard the timing a bit for the trip but it isn't the best thing to do, especially for a long trip. You're right, you won't get 98 accross the Nullabor. You could carry jerrys but it is still a long way.

Your last stop for BP fuel is at Norseman. Give them a call and find out whether they carry it. Then you won't get it again until maybe Port Augusta. Which still means that there is I think almost 2000klm's between stops. What type of fuel economy do you get?

You could carry some good quality octaine booster with you as well. Just stay off the hard boost. How bad doed your car ping with normal stuff?

You could retard the timing a bit for the trip but it isn't the best thing to do, especially for a long trip. You're right, you won't get 98 accross the Nullabor. You could carry jerrys but it is still a long way.

Your last stop for BP fuel is at Norseman. Give them a call and find out whether they carry it. Then you won't get it again until maybe Port Augusta. Which still means that there is I think almost 2000klm's between stops. What type of fuel economy do you get?

You could carry some good quality octaine booster with you as well. Just stay off the hard boost. How bad doed your car ping with normal stuff?

98 is available all the way across now that Caltex sells it as well

Am I missing something here?????

The whole idea of a aftermarket ECU is being able to load custom maps to suit what you're doing with your car!!

Get it tuned for std unleaded and you'll not only travel safely, you'll be able to get an "economy tune" if the tuner knows what he's doing.

As TJ says, it'll be at a lower boost with some timing taken out. You should also be able to lean out the off boost/low boost load points and save some fuel as well! Just make sure that you well and truely flush the std fuel before reloading the "nasty" maps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...