Rewiring AVCR. Engine bay help required.

[Abo Bob]

My AVCR solenoid is mounted behind the drivers side wheel arch and it's loud and annoying. Also I've been told that the length of hose running makes it slower to react.

Pic one is where it's mounted.

Pic two is the pair of tubes running all the way around the engine.

Pic three is I think the t-piece where the boost controller taps in, so to speak.

Can I safely cut the wires shown in pic one and run longer ones around the other side of the engine? What spec wire should I use if this is ok? (I always get confused at Jaycar, there is too much wire to choose from.)

Do people think this is worthwhile from a response perspective or am I only doing this to get the noise further away from me?

[Abo Bob]

While I'm at it.

What is the thing is the first pic here? It is connected to the thing in the second pic, which looks like some sort of a filter.

[Baz]

By the looks of it, I'm more than sure that is your fuel filter...

[Ronin 09]

That's the boost gauge sensor for the AVC-R... Fuel filter is a dirty big metal thingy and wouldn't be attached to the intake manifold

[SKYL9]

doesnt it say to mount that black thingo vertical in the manual?

[Abo Bob]

Got boost - Thanks, I should have been more specific. I know the fuel filter.

ronin - boost gauge sensor sounds right.

SKYL9 - I think it does but I didn't install it. I think I may fix it when someone tells me what's what from my first post.

[Abo Bob]

Bumpy around here.

[Roy]

You can cut the solenoid wires and solder in a length of wire to suit. I did and its not a problem. As for the type of wire, i used 0.5mm unifilar wire.

And yes the little black fitting with wire and hoses is the MAP sensor for the AVC-R.

But the easiest fix is to get about 3mm thick rubber and mount the solenoid on that. Or even better is do what i did and make up a simple aluminium bracket that bolts off an existing hole and combined with the rubber you will never hear the solenoid.

As for the length of hose, there is some merit to that thinking. However if the thing is holding stabel boost and is repsonding well (not spiking) then the length of the hose is not really effecting anything.

More important is the diam of the hose.

My suggestion is, remove all the existing wiring, and make up a simple aluminium bracket that bolts to the back of one the power steering reservoirs. It will shorten the boost/vacuum lines significantly, as it will now sit 6-8 inches from the actuator. The std length of wire is fine if you run the wire thru the firewall with the ECU wiring.

...and dont forget the rubber mounts:)

[Abo Bob]

Thanks Roy.

It does spike and that's partially why I was interested to know if this could be the reason. Also it spiked on Sunday to 0.92 bar which resulted in a blown turbo.

It already has a rubber mount but I had exactly the same idea as you with a an alluminium bracket.

So I wont need more wire if I rewire through the passenger side of the car?

I might as well do all this while I'm replacing the turbo. I had hoped to have it out already but there is a bastard alan key bolt holding my dump pipe on to the turbo.

[Roy]

Damn, shame about costing you a turbo:(

But in which case do the bracket behind the power steering reservoir. You will be able to get the lines nice and short. Also use the correct diam hose, if you use the larger 8mm hose then its harder for the solenoid to control the boost.

Depending where they run your wiring in the dash, it may take a bit of tweaking, but the std AVC-R definitely has enough length in its wiring to run next to the ECU harness thru passenger side sill.

I mounted the MAP sensor over near the brake booster, so once again the vacuum/boost line is short as possible, as if this line is overly wrong then in theory it could also dull the response of the controls/AVC-R. That was the wiring that i had to extend a few inches so as to allow me to keep the boost/vacuum hose short as possible off the inlet manifold:cheers:

Good luck with it