Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im tossing up between a couple of options for turbo/s on my RB26/30 I am currently building. I am considering running a pair of turbos such as these:

GT32 73 Trim .78A/R (externally gated versions)

Turbo specs

As these are non ball bearing turbos, will there be a noticeable difference compared to ball bearing versions in spool time?

Will these be able to flow enough for 400 rwkw through an 3 sp auto? Rest of ancillaries will be up to spec. Or should I just stick to something like a single GT40 BB turbo?

Any help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68518-turbo-options-on-a-rb2630/
Share on other sites

Twin BB 400hp GT25's from garret would do you fine for 400rwkw but a single GT35r with 0.82 exh a/r would possible be pushing close to 2 bar to push out 400rwkw tho? dont take my word for it tho as not to how the GT35r's are with 400rwkw.. waiting for a few people to get there car tuned.... *cough* 55nat

dont forget tho.. if a big single can do the job.. its easier to pay for one turbo and a waste gate instead of 2 turbos or 2 turbos and 2 wastegates... either wat your choice.. personaly i'd prolly go with the big single.. have you looked into a HKS T51R KAI?

Waz

One turbo is always better than two providing the turbo setups (ie 2 vs 1) are both of the same design. I have been through this before. Anyway, a single GT3540 will give you 400rwkW or with your capacity you maybe better of with the GT40 or bigger if you want. Id stick with the first two, probs the GT40. Anyways, there is no excuse for going twin. Garrett make ball bearing turbos that can support 2000hp (GT60, compressor 141mm). You will be happier going single. Cheaper, more efficient (ie boost earlier and more power) and much much easier to service.

Run 8.5-9:1 compression and GT40 and 400rwkW on street fuel and probs + octane booster. Ofcourse if you want to make huge HP....use on of garretts big BBGT turbos.

Please PM your email address (MSN/hotmail if possible) as Id love to hear about your progress.

Good luck

Id stick with the first two, probs the GT40. Anyways, there is no excuse for going twin. Garrett make ball bearing turbos that can support 2000hp (GT60, compressor 141mm). You will be happier going single. Cheaper, more efficient (ie boost earlier and more power) and much much easier to service.

Run 8.5-9:1 compression and GT40 and 400rwkW on street fuel and probs + octane booster. Ofcourse if you want to make huge HP....use on of garretts big BBGT turbos.

Im a fan of the singles...and agree with most of what you said, but boost earlier?

Doesnt it depend largely on the power you are chasing, and also the turbos themselves. Dynamically two 320hp turbos have less inertia then a 600hp turbo, well at least the few examples where i did the calcs seemed to support it.(Based on Garret compressor and turbine sizes) :cheers:

It depends a lot on what else you are doing to the engine, and a big single will likely work great, but twins do have a place and on paper can be more responsive:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!
    • Wanting to avoid this if possible but kinda looking like I may not have a choice 😭
    • Ok awesome thank you. Just wanted to have them in case I can find some and need to compare part numbers!
    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
×
×
  • Create New...