Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Auto Info

Just to let you know that the Stags came out with two types of boxes, both are RC40 but there is an A and a B box. The A box is the most common being available in a lot of Aussie Nissans so parts are readilly available but the B box is only from Japan so some parts will have to come from there ie.. Electric Solenoids and oil filter.

The valve body is also different as I purchased one from M V Autos that fits the A but not my B although we didn't try to match it up visually some valves are different.

The solenoids seem to be a problem when they get hot and your car will end up having only one forward gear 3rd, when cold the solenoids can check out as OK. Hopefully this problem seems to only afflict low mileage R34/Stagea with Neo and Tiptronic.

Driving around in 3rd is a bitch but still capable in rolling starts :P

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Gawd Gary - sorry to hear that.... third gear start lol - thats like having an UltraSnow button :rofl:

... but are you saying the Series 2 tiptronic auto box is always type B, or could be either A or B... and how the hell do I tell before I go playing around with it??

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1273480
Share on other sites

The solenoids seem to be a problem when they get hot and your car will end up having only one forward gear 3rd, when cold the solenoids can check out as OK. Hopefully this problem seems to only afflict low mileage R34/Stagea with Neo and Tiptronic.

Driving around in 3rd is a bitch but still capable in rolling starts  

Also is a problem with the R34 2WD variant...I was stuck in 3rd for 2 months!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1276066
Share on other sites

TWO MONTHS NOOOoooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think I will ring up tomorrow.

Oil Cooler no problem, when I fit my fmic I will have a spare cooler allready mounted, all it will need is some fittings welded on for the oil lines. (I hope it can hold the pressure but it will be checked out beforehand)

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1277076
Share on other sites

Not connected with the shift kit.

I had a hiccup with the trans the day before and on the morning of getting the kit fitted it decided to s''t itself before they had a chance to put it in the w/shop.

The MV Autos kit sounds good but it is for the A box not the B box so reluctantly I had to return it.

My Auto tech did put welsh plugs in the 2 central holes as per shift mod but i'm still stuck in 3rd untill Nissan Australia pull their finger out and get the parts to me so I don't know how much of a differance that will make but the auto mech reckons it will firm the shifts up a bit.

Maybe I should order 2 sets of solenoids just in case, for the future.

I am going to use my original intercooler as the new oilcooler, so has anyone else tried this?

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1278830
Share on other sites

Hmm, I know I am probably going to rustle a few feathers here but, oh well.

A skyline mechanic friend of mine does not rate the RE401 autos at all. And that's putting it nicely.

What's is the genreal consensus out there? It seems that Gary is slowly going grey (or even balding) with his auto troubles.

Is the RE401 the Achilles heal of the mighty stagea, and what are the must do mods to improve the reliability & performance of the auto? And most improtantly, is there a serious weakness in a particular series (ie. the Neo)

With that many auto stageas out there I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering.

PS. I want to buy a stagea, I reckon they are the perfect package!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1290073
Share on other sites

Sorry

No ignorance on your part because if you don't know you just ask, to me that is not ignorance.

You need an oil cooler to cool the oil in your Auto, but there are specific coolers just for autos that don't need to be high pressure like an engine oil cooler as they don't usually have to cope with the same type of pressure.

My plan is to modify my standard intercooler to an auto oil cooler when I mount my front mount intercooler as it is nice and large and allready mounted somewhere.

I am allso fitting an engine oil cooler under the R/H/F guard, Not for racing but because of the temp we get here and too hot oil is not good.

SK fitted the largest heavy duty one he could buy as he uses his car for towing a race car which would cause his auto oil to get very hot and his standard one just wouldn't cope.

For an unmodified car that dosen't get any abuse, an upgraded oil cooler is a good idea, but for something that gets worked a bit it is a must. After a good drive when you stop put your hand on or around your shift lever you can feel the heat radiating through.

Hope this helps or maybe my ramblings are more confusing.

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1290655
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ben and Gary,

The model code on my build plate actually reads "RE4R01A" followed by the "RC40". I can't read Japanese, but I assume this is the transmission type because it is close to the RE40 that you identify. If this is correct, then mine is obviously an 'A' type box.

Cheers ..... Craig

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68582-automatics/#findComment-1311699
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...