Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Picked up my car on Saturday.. been trying to play a few CDs.

It's a stock R33 S2 doulbe din head unit with the cd + tape deck. The CDs either say "cd err" or randomly skip. I have tried a range of CDs, and not just CD-Rs ("real"CDs too!).

I can only be lead to believe there is a fault in the deck itself, does anyone know if this is covered by the NSW statuatory wty? Do I have a leg to stand on returning to the dealer and asking him to swap it with his other stock?

Cheers,

Tim

Tim: did you attempt to use the deck when you test drove the car to make sure it worked correctly?

If you hadnt tried it out previously i hate to say it but i dont think there is much you can do mate.

give them a call and explain to them exactly what its doing and you never know they may just sort it out for you.

good luck

Guest GR33DyMANGO
Originally posted by Timmy G

Hi Nick,

Unfortunately I didn't.  He hadn't installed the freq expander and I didn't have a CD on me so I didn't test it out at all.

However, radio does work perfectly.  I'll drop them a call and see how I go, thanks.

where do u buy a frequency expander? how much do they cost?

these make a jap stereo pick up australian frequencies right?

G'day,

I didn't install it - it was part of compliance I guess. I heard they were like $40.

The Jap radios seem to stop at 99.99 or something (i.e. can't pick up 104.1 etc). Mine offsets the freq by 18, so 96.9 => 78.9, etc.

Originally posted by GR33DyMANGO

where do u buy a frequency expander? how much do they cost?

these make a jap stereo pick up australian frequencies right?

Originally posted by GR33DyMANGO

thanks guys:)

anyone know where i can buy one? im in perth. would a normal car stereo shop sell these or are they found elsewhere?

ta.

how about buy a new head unit ? the jap-crap clarion double-din that came in mine was ASS! ... and it "looked" really expensive!

Just turf it... and get a decent unit, you'll want to soon enough anyway. If you like your music you'll want something that sounds much better.

I've never heard a standard issue face unit sounding that great. Even the brand name ones they include in a new car usually are pretty poor quality (like the lowest of their range).

Originally posted by tlai909

In what way was it ass?

I thought it was the speakers the car came with that were crappy, but i still replaced the head unit first... put in my panasonic 4x45W, and OMG, sounded 10times better... more loudness/clarity/everything!

CHECK THE PAPERWORK CAREFULLY

Used car dealers must put a vehicle description form on the windscreen of every used car. The form will show the dealer's name, the cash price and other details such as the engine number, odometer reading and if a warranty applies.

A Form 4 indicates the car has a standard used car warranty.

A Form 8 means there is no statutory warranty.

Occasionally there may be Form 6. This means a standard used car warranty applies but the dealer is not going to repair certain items that don't affect safety, such as air conditioning.

YOUR STATUTORY WARRANTY RIGHTS

All used vehicles purchased from licensed dealers are covered by a 3 month or 5,000 km statutory warranty providing:

The vehicle is not more than 10 years old and has not travelled more than 160,000 km.

The purchase price does not exceed the Luxury Vehicle Depreciation Limit ($52,912 as of 1 January 1996). This amount varies at each annual Federal Budget and applies from 1 January each year.

It is not a commercial vehicle.

WHAT DOES YOUR WARRANTY COVER?

In general terms, the motor vehicle and

all accessories fitted at the time of sale are covered by the warranty. . If a defect occurs during the warranty period, the dealer is obliged to fix the defect so that the vehicle is in reasonable condition for it's age. The time it takes to make repairs is added on to your warranty period.

Guest GR33DyMANGO
Originally posted by Strich9ine

how about buy a new head unit ? the jap-crap clarion double-din that came in mine was ASS! ... and it "looked" really expensive!

yer im going to sell the one ive got in my car atm so i wanted to make sure the radio will work.

ive already got a pioneer oel deck from my last car. how kewl are dolphins swimming around on the screen... its the best rice ever:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...