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1998 R34 GTT A/T sedan

RyanN
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RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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I just bought a 1998 R34 Skyline GT-T sedan less than a month ago and have started to have problems. From checking out the forum i see that the r34's have had quite a few problems to do with the electrical side of things. When i first played around with the car the 'TCS' would only turn off and not back on but after resetting the ECU it started to work fine, the switch actually started to turn it off and on; however i've had this other problem which seems to happen once in awhile - i would be cruising down the highway at 100 then suddenly the 'TCS off', 'slip' and 'check engine' lights would come on but nothing would change in the way the car was running. ie: the engine still sounds the same and doesn't loose power or anything. i checked the instruments when this happens and everything is ok, oil press is fine and eng temp fine. Once i arrive at work i turn the car off then back on and everythings back to normal, is it? (could it have something to do with the sensors?)

PS. ive checked the whole car out when i got it - oil, water levels and used hi-pressure air to remove alot of built up dust and junk that collected in the fusebox and wiring.

thanks in advance!

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RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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It has the stock 17" wheels.

Ive got a few pics of it over on cardomain:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/802508

im going to keep it looking stock for awhile since i would rather spend the money on performance. ive already bought a 300x600x75 intercooler and 450hp turbo. The build up begins......

RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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yep, the front and backseats need a scrub. One thing about japanese cars is that the ashtrays are always really worn, same with my old supra - removed the centre console and there was ash all over the place.

  • 2 weeks later...
RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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back to the problem at hand, the 'check engine' light and TCS still turns off randomly, however it usually happens halfway into my comute (once the engines warmed up -sometimes). Happened this morning and this time it felt like the engine load had been taken off but the car still drove at the same speed, and of all things it felt more responsive when accelerating. What the hell is going on?

r34_skyline Proficient

r34_skyline

Posted
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It has the stock 17" wheels.

Ive got a few pics of it over on cardomain:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/802508

im going to keep it looking stock for awhile since i would rather spend the money on performance. ive already bought a 300x600x75 intercooler and 450hp turbo. The build up begins......

hey, can u tell me the colour code for that car ? is it athelete silver or sonic silver ?

yeh, code colour would be good.

RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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i believe its sonic silver, its a darker silver than most silvers almost in between gunmetal grey and silver. Which part on the plate tells you the code?

Over the weekend i did some engine checksand found a huge vacume leak in a hose going between the intake and this little black sensor thing tucked away next to the left suspension strut and brake cylinder, repaired it and now the boost gauge goes into vacume when idling, thats normal right? when i got it it never went below 0. I though it might of fixed this TCS problem but no, still have that problem. Also i tested the BOV which worked extremly well except for when the engine warmed up and idled below 1000rpm, causing it to struggle then stall. Driving was fine, the BOV goes off under hardly any boost making a loud pfffshhhhhhh noise which sounded really awesome even with just an A/T. Don't know how i could fix the stall problem since the GFB Mach 1 BOV spring can't be adjusted. any ideas?

r34_skyline Proficient

r34_skyline

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Posted
i believe its sonic silver, its a darker silver than most silvers almost in between gunmetal grey and silver. Which part on the plate tells you the code?

Over the weekend i did some engine checksand found a huge vacume leak in a hose going between the intake and this little black sensor thing tucked away next to the left suspension strut and brake cylinder, repaired it and now the boost gauge goes into vacume when idling, thats normal right? when i got it it never went below 0. I though it might of fixed this TCS problem but no, still have that problem. Also i tested the BOV which worked extremly well except for when the engine warmed up and idled below 1000rpm, causing it to struggle then stall. Driving was fine, the BOV goes off under hardly any boost making a loud pfffshhhhhhh noise which sounded really awesome even with just an A/T. Don't know how i could fix the stall problem since the GFB Mach 1 BOV spring can't be adjusted. any ideas?

umm it should say on the plate. its a 3digit figure. e.g TV1 etc

RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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i'll go out and check it at lunchtime, im currently at work :rofl:

Whats the boost/vacume gauge meant to show at full stock boost? when i got the car i would show no vacume but would max out just below the halfway line from +1(which is about 5-6PSI, when i fixed the vacume leak it now averages about halfway in vacume then max boost at just past the halfway mark which i about 8-10 PSI.

RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

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BNR34:

TV2 Bayside Blue

QM1 White

KR4 Sonic Silver <-

KV2 Silver

GV1 Black Pearl

AR2 Active Red

EV1 Lightning Yellow

LV4 Midnight Purple 2

WV2 Sparkling Silver

QX1 White Pearl

LX0 Midnight Purple 3

EY0 Silica Breeze

JW0 Millenium Jade

source: http://northwestnissans.com/board/showthre...1146#post331146

most turbo cars don't have have a problem with the atmo BOVs, so why does the r34?

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