Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive just bought an r32 gts-t 1989 and im getting its all registered and plates ect and for the stamp duty they say they want the market value of the cars but they places they told me i could find it dont have them for skylines do you guys know how much or when i could find some info? i know its $8 out of every $200 of the market value i thought it was the purchase?? thanks in advance!!

Stamp duty is 4% of total purchase. So for example a car you buy for $10,000 you will need to pay $400 stamp duty (in victoria). When I called up a few insurance companies to ask about the "market value" of skylines, I was told that since they are imported the usual "market value" price estimate is not available, but that really doesnt matter, on the registration form you can pretty much write down the purchase price as anything, Im just taking a wild guess but since your car is a 89 R32 GTST (assuming its just imported) you may have paid around $7000 for it? Just right down that price, pay the $280 and bobs ur uncle!

Well in NSW... and taken from NSW RTA website...

"You pay stamp duty on the market value of the vehicle or on the price you paid for the

vehicle, whichever is higher. Stamp duty is 3% of the market value of the car, up to

$45,000 then 5% on the value over $45,000."

So say if the stamp duty is based on $8000 you will pay $240 stamp duty.

Hope that helps.

Just quote the purchase price, if they think its too low, they'll send you a letter. But as the car is moe than 15 years old, they probably wont care.

When i bought my r32 2 years ago for $16.5k, they wrote me a letter saying that was too cheap! Ends up they looked up the aus delivered R32 GTR as its the only skyline on the system. I just wrote them a letter back and it was all fine.

that for the help guys i got her 2day!!! see how it turns out im going to vic roads on wednesday.... the guy i bought it off put 4gz on the receipt hopefully its only about 200 or so. the car cost me 11gz though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...