Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl, well I know this comes up all the time as I have done a search and none of the solutions seem to help. I have just come by a car that I have bought knowingly not working. It has a S2 RB25DET STOCK. When I picked it up it was misfiring heaps and a crap-load of black smoke as soon as it hit boost (but only a little on idle and cruise). Running rich - definately! I found the alternator was wired wrong hence the flat battery when I got home. Fixed that.

I have tested the AFM on a mates R33 and its working fine. I have checked all the wires going back to the ECU - they seem to be correct. My next step is to test my ECU on my friends R33 to check whether the ECU is bugered.

I have done a diagnostic on the ecu - 55 - all ok. Apparently before the engine was converted into this car by the previous owner he was driving it and it was running fine. I have checked the coils (resistance varies only slightly). I have checked the grounding for the injectors and coils.... I am REALLY stumped on this one. The crank angle sensor has apparently been replaced with a newy.

I dont think its the turbo as it spools up nice and the BOV is heard... The engine seems to be OK with regards to oil being where it shouldnt (coolant) and vica versa. I just can't understand why it's overfueling unless it has something to do with the Fule pressure regulator... but then that wouldn't explain the misfiring. I am also going to check the plugs tonight...

Sorry for the bore as a lot of you may have heard this so many times over.... any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68796-rb25det-conversion-help/
Share on other sites

Yeah I am a little lost for options. I have tested the AFM on my friends R33 and it has worked fine. I can't think of much else that I have not mentioned originally above that could cause it. I will have to see whether my ECU does the same sort of thing when we put it in his tonight. On top of that if I could actually drive it properly (Is really bad) I might be able to think of some other things... but I can hardly get it out of the garage :D

Was the crank angle sensor replaced prior to the problem starting? there a few different types apparently.

The missfire could be a result of stupid amounts of fuel. Have you checked the fuel pressure? It may be the problem, could also be bigger injectors if you're really lucky :)

today I just bought a new aftermarket regulator... still same prob. I am starting to think its either the injectors or ecu... my ecu has "G8" on the label, is this standard for a S2 rb25det? I am thinking maybe this isnt the right ecu and its outputting the wrong impedence to the injectors.... perhaps the ecu is outputting a high impedence signal when the injector needs a low impedence signal.. or vica versa. Can anyone help with this???

BTW the car this came out of was auto, its now manual so I don't know whether there are different ecu's for auto or manual like the RB30's.... in other words if there is a difference then the ecu would have been changed and it's a bigger possibility that it could be that... a wrong ecu. I have no idea whether this is the same ecu out of the old car or whether its another the previous owner sourced...

Take the injectors out and heve them tested / cleaned.

Also, was the timing reset after the CAS was replaced? If you can hardly get it out of the garage, it sounds like the CAS is out to buggery (firing AFTER TDC, maybe).

The battery has nothing to do with the timing - disconnecting the battery will have no effect on the settings of the CAS. You need to hook up a timing light to check what the base timing is (at idle, it should be around 15 BTDC)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...