Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I have a 34 gtt with full 3" exhaust (turbo back) and a pod filter. I was going to leave the boost alone as I was told that 34's run 0.9 bar (about 13 psi) from the factory. I ignored the factory boost guage until I just realised it measures in kg/cm2 which is Bar and at full boost it only goes up to about 0.6 (about 8 psi). Can anyone verify the stock boost level on an r34? Also if the guage is definitely accurate and the stock boost level is around 8 psi I would probably use a bleed valve to increase it to 1 bar. Has anyone done this themsleves to a 34, if so is the increase in power worth it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68847-stock-boost-on-34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Stock boost is supposed to be 6psi which is just a bit below the 3/4 mark. I have noticed mine going a little over in cold air areas (early mornings or around Mt Tambo)

Don't know about upping the boost. From what i've heard, u dont want to take the standard turbos above 10psi cos theyre quite fragile yet quick to spool to full boost.

Hmmmm, thanks for the replies.

I think i'll hook up a boost guage temporarily to get a definite reading. Does anyone know from first hand experience if 34 turbos can run 14 psi with the stock intercooler (relatively) safely. I'm pretty keen to increase it to 1 bar providing its not too harsh on the turbo (at the moment it just doesnt feel quick enough!) - Choyda, you say from what you've heard its not a good idea to go above 10 psi on 34's, im confused because i've heard all sorts about 32's an 33's (mostly 12 psi is ok for stock cooler) but nothing about 34's.....

Also i have a blitz Boost guage (one of those funky E.L ones that are way overpriced!) - does anyone know if it would fit in the factory guage pod, if so i reckon it would look nice n tidy :cheers: (it looks like it would fit, i just wanted to make sure as i'm sure someones already tried it and knows how much modding is required)

Those three gaugues in the centre are one unit so you can't just pull one out and replace it with a different kind.

I believe about 12psi is safe to run but I can tell you from first hand experience that you shouldn't push it more than that. Mine spiked to 0.91 bar on sunday and that blew my turbo.

Abo Bob - thats not cool about your turbo, what mods do you have and how long have you been runnin that boost and with what controller??

Also is yours manual? I noticed your 1/4 mile time, i went to run at willowbank raceway lat night but it was rained off :cheers:

Did you increase the boost yourself? - if so what was the stock boost setting?

Anyone else - stock boost setting on r34's!!??

Thanks

Motorman - I've been running 0.8 to 0.85 bar for about 8 or 10 months I think.

I have a full exhaust including split dump/front pipe combo which is HPC coated.

Nismo panel filter.

Chipped ECU

Auto/tiptronic

AVC-R

Blitz LM Intercooler

189rwkw last tested before cooler install.

I don't think that a very good 1/4 mile time. It was consistant though cos I did about 30 odd passes that day. 13.9 in 'D', 14 flat down to 13.8 changing gears with the buttons.

Stock boost is 7psi, just under 0.5 bar. That's a fact.

Nah Elushun - High flow going in now.

I think 12 psi is safe for an r34. Mine spiked on the track. 190km/h near redline and pfft.

12 psi is definitely safe on the street. If I think about it; as I came out of the last turn onto the straight in second gear I floored it, so from there to the end of the straight (90km/h up to 190km/h) I was on boost permanently. So an already hot turbo from the track work I was doing, coupled with a sustained period of high boost and add those to the fact that it spiked to 0.91 bar and it's no wonder it blew.

Anyway, steel wheel going in now.

im not going to argue do a search and do the research!

and if u think 12psi is safe your sadly mistaken!

Motorman - I've been running 0.8 to 0.85 bar for about 8 or 10 months I think.

I have a full exhaust including split dump/front pipe combo which is HPC coated.  

Nismo panel filter.

Chipped ECU

Auto/tiptronic

AVC-R

Blitz LM Intercooler

189rwkw last tested before cooler install.

 

I don't think that a very good 1/4 mile time.  It was consistant though cos I did about 30 odd passes that day. 13.9 in 'D', 14 flat down to 13.8 changing gears with the buttons.

 

Stock boost is 7psi, just under 0.5 bar. That's a fact.

 

Nah Elushun - High flow going in now.

 

I think 12 psi is safe for an r34.  Mine spiked on the track.  190km/h near redline and pfft.

 

12 psi is definitely safe on the street.  If I think about it; as I came out of the last turn onto the straight in second gear I floored it, so from there to the end of the straight (90km/h up to 190km/h) I was on boost permanently.  So an already hot turbo from the track work I was doing, coupled with a sustained period of high boost and add those to the fact that it spiked to 0.91 bar and it's no wonder it blew.

 

Anyway, steel wheel going in now.

Well from what I was told at the last meet, the turbos are ceramic bearing with a nylon based compressor wheel that doesnt take high boost well (the wheel breaks) but again, spools up quite quickly. There are alse series 2 R34's around that had steel wheel turbos from the factory apparently. Ask AFRO if u can track him down... something to do with if the turbo has NISSAN or Garrett on it.

Ok, the stock 0.5 bar would make sense as with a full exhaust mine is runnin just over the halfway mark on the factory guage which i am assuming is quite accurate. I will hook up a decent guage just to make sure of current boost. Lets say i am running 0.6 bar (8-9 psi) do you think it is worth increasing to 12 psi - i am guessing there will a very small gain and i will increase spiking and it will be to some degree harsh on the turbo.. i find it strange that an R33 25t turbo can run 12 psi or up to 14 with a larger cooler safely but a 34 turbo is weaker??

Abo bob - i'm interested in the mods on your car, i know that bigger turbo, front mount, power fc would be the next step for decent power but realistically that would be $6-7k (plus other bits like clutch n fuel to cope with the extra 100kw or so) but to be honest i don't wanna spend that kind of money. Did you notice respectable gains from ur tuned ecu, i have a pod which feels better than the factory filter (but not by much) is the panel better because theres not much air gettin to the pod as the factory air dam is now gone..? Lastly with the front mount is there much gain at the boost ur runnin? I reckon you'd be increasing lag but not getting much of a gain considering the relatively small amount of air that the stock turbo produces??

I got 27 rwkw from the ECU. I noticed an immediate gain from the panel filter but I've never had a pod so can't really comment. I know that they flow better than stock filter but if it is not enclosed in a box then you are sucking hot engine bay air into it which will decrease performance.

I don't think I gained much if any power from the FMIC. And yes I did get a decrease in response (different from lag) from it. It went fine with the stock cooler but I got it to keep it safer with cooler air. Obviously it didn't really help because I've blown my turbo anyway. Maybe it would have happened sooner.

I am putting a high flow turbo on there now. I wanted a GTRS but have decided to save my money for now. I'll see what I can get out of this.

Hey,

  I have a 34 gtt with full 3" exhaust (turbo back) and a pod filter. I was going to leave the boost alone as I was told that 34's run 0.9 bar (about 13 psi) from the factory. I ignored the factory boost guage until I just realised it measures in kg/cm2 which is Bar and at full boost it only goes up to about 0.6 (about 8 psi). Can anyone verify the stock boost level on an r34? Also if the guage is definitely accurate and the stock boost level is around 8 psi I would probably use a bleed valve to increase it to 1 bar. Has anyone done this themsleves to a 34, if so is the increase in power worth it?

Had my R34 GTT on dyno when it was stock to get an accurate KW & boost reading ( the boost gauge isn't always that accurate).

I can verify my stock 34GTT ran apx 8 psi on boost most of the way, a little over at its peak.

Motorman: You also seem to be in the same dilema as I am. I currently have pretty much the same mods as you. When I consulted my local workshop intrested in upping my boost I got the same response as those who have posted here. The general consensus was not to overstep the 10 psi mark to be safe. As far a bleed valves go (no matter how good) there is the possibility to spike at least 1 or 2 psi on boost. I know some bleed valves these days are a lot better and more consistent, but I'll wait till down the track to start telling my boost what to do.

I'll have to get my boost checked since adding mods. But I think (for mine) at the moment running somewhere betwen 8 & 9 psi is enough for now. At least not worth winding up yet.

As an example: HPI's project R34 GTT didn't take that long to blow a turbo on the track at 1 bar. I'll have to watch the HPI video again to be sure (can't remember what No.).

As a side note: I'll be posting the results of adding Splitfire DI coilpacks to the mix of mods on Monday.

Good thread, cheers.

how would a T3/T04 garret turbo rated at 450hp (with a 300x600x75 RHK FMIC) perform on the stock RB35DET motor? Whats the stock r34 turbo flange? at what point do you upgrade the internals?

You will max out your fueling before you hit the potential of the turbo.

ECU will limit you serverly.

T3 flange.

I would keep power to 250rwkw on stock internals but others have pushed beyond this with no problems.

12 psi is definitely safe on the street.  If I think about it; as I came out of the last turn onto the straight in second gear I floored it, so from there to the end of the straight (90km/h up to 190km/h) I was on boost permanently.  So an already hot turbo from the track work I was doing, coupled with a sustained period of high boost and add those to the fact that it spiked to 0.91 bar and it's no wonder it blew.

 

Anyway, steel wheel going in now.

do the same thing for approx 4-5 laps and then come back and say its working the same :rofl:

And abo bob, isnt your turbo blown at the moment?

what kind of boost can the stock ECU/injectors/fuel pump go up to?

stock ECU you'd be lucky to get 200rwkrw, you might be able too squeeze 220rwkw with a bigger turbo but then the injectors would be on the edge IMO

but hard too use a rwkw figure as every dyno is different :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...