32 Gts T Race Specs

[drifto]

Another problem im seeing is possibly say for example when i press in the new castor rod bushes, then press the eccentric/metal tubes into them; will i beable to adjust them???? the fit to me looks pretty tight

You need to do some mods to these eccentric bushes to make them adjustable.

It might be a little hard to explain over the forum.

Using a drill press you put two holes through the thickest side of the metal cores that runs through the bush.

You insert little steel dowels into these holes so they only come through the inside about 2-3mm. But you need to push them slightly past the outside of the core to give the weld something to stick to.

Hit it with some weld.

Next you take your bolts from these bushes and using a drill press again you gradually run a channel throught the thread of the bolt at leasst 3mm deeep and all the way to the end of the thread.

When done the bolt shold slide easily inside the tube with the dowels locking them into position. The tube once cleaned up on the outside can be pressed back into the bush not forgetting a heap of grease.

Once in the car you can adjust camber settings by simply turning the bolt and tightening it into position.

This is what i have done to all my upper control arm bushes that had the eccentric camber kits in them.

Combined on the front with the Cusco adjustable upper arms i can get around 4 degrees neg on the front. The back can be adjusted between zero to 3 degrees neg if desired.

[Roy]

Well im hoping these DMS shocks are the bees knees, @ $3890.00 inc GST will my car handle that differently, rather then just bumping up the spring rates and seeing how i go retaining my Bilsteins?!?!?

If i feather the throttle by mid corner and get on the power early my car is pretty balanced. If im really hard on the brakes and not on the power by mid corner, or perhaps even a bit earlier, i seem to get massive amounts of roll oversteer.

It just means my corner entry and mid corner speeds seem well down on what they could be...

[drifto]

Feedback from Oran Park 17th April

I actually only changed the rear toe settings from 2mm out to 2mm in.

I left the camber at neg 2.25 because changing two things at once will not give a clear indication of what effects those changes have.

The car was far more ontrollable on turn in without the immediate flicking out of the tail into over steer that i was battling at EC.

I could get much more drive out of the corners with the rear staying nice and tight.

I still suffer a fair bit from wheel spin on corner exits but it was heaps easier to control with these settings.

Bascically the car wouldn't try and swap ends but rather stepped out slightly that i could control and adjust with steering and throttle quite easily.

The day was once again cut short after only 15 laps with dissintergrated front brake pads

and the rears had done so much work they went throught to the backing plate.

In the last session i entered most hard braking corners already in a slide sometimes with the rear wheel locked and engined stalled. Felt like driving a big sloppy go kart.

Best lap for the day was on lap 9 with a 1min 23.9.

Played with tire pressure a bit too.

1st session went out with 34 all round. Came in at 40

Took about 1 lap to come on

Bled down to 32 hot

Whent out again and it took till the third lap to come good, never got more readings due to the braking issues.

Stayed tuned

[Sydneykid]

We run 27 mm front bar and a 24mm rwar bar, this is the R32 GTST at Bathurst (Murrays) with the both bars on their softest settings;

[Roy]

I remember the pics/footage fo your car at the Bathurst Sprint last year:)

The car seemed to sit nice on the road. Any idea where i can get a 27mm front and 24mm rear adjustable sway bar for an R32 GTST, inc bushes etc. Whiteline/Noltec etc dont list them?!?!?!

This is next to the flag stand on the left hander right before the real tight right hander at Winton:(

The car has so much lean that the outside tryes do all the work, sure i could wind on more camber so that at least the loaded tyres contact patch is on the money, but id rather have the inside tyres earnig their keep as well.

In the slow stuff it only hurts me a few km/h, but where it really hurts is a place like Siberia at PI, which is on the loud pedal in 3rd gear opening up to a nice little straight away, the extra 10-20km/h would really help

Actually that pc could be turn 2 at PI, either way they are both flowing turns which open up to full throttle blasts where extra corner speed will really help the little RB20 hussle it along:)

LOL..i look at all the pics to see the attitude on the car, as it goes some way to explaining the seat of the pants feeling when driving....what is it they say about a picture and a thousand words:)

[Sydneykid]

Hi Roy, the Whiteline product codes are;

B= Stabiliser bar

N = Nissan

F = Front

## = Part Number

X = Heavy duty (one size up from "normal" duty)

XX = Extra heavy duty (2 sizes up from "normal" duty)

Z = Adjustable

The front 27mm adjustable is BNF28XZ (the X increases the size from 24 mm to 27mm)

The rear 24mm adjustabe is BNR26XZ (the X increases the size from 22 mm to 24mm)

If you are ordering them direct from Whiteline, try asking for 1 extra hole per blade, that will give you 2 more settings per bar to play with.

Hope that helps:cheers:

PS; PI has lots of long high speed corners, we run harder springs there, higher bar settings and more bump valving on the shocks. Even then, a little more camber is sometimes needed.

[Roy]

Well bugger, once again need tofind a shock for my car. Ordered a set and turns out they are no longer in manufacture and stocks are out:(

Back to the drawing board:(

[drifto]

Hey Sydney Kid, I was watching your race at Wakefeild the other day. Is your 32 a GTS or GTR as they have it?

I would think the GTR settings are heaps different to what would be required for a rear drive RB20 powered 225/50 16's shod car of around 150kg less?????

Anyway, nice driving and make sure you keep beating the commodores.

[Sydneykid]

Hey Sydney Kid, I was watching your race at Wakefeild the other day. Is your 32 a GTS or GTR as they have it?

I would think the GTR settings are heaps different to what would be required for a rear drive RB20 powered 225/50 16's shod car of around 150kg less?????

Anyway, nice driving and make sure you keep beating the commodores.

A bit of clarification. I personally have an R32GTST that I race myself (not very often as the race team is very busy at the moment), the Improved Production R32GTR is driven by Dave Loftus and the Production R32GTR is driven by Phil Coles.

Yes the GTR is set up quite differently to the GTST, the extra weight over the front wheels and the 4wd make a big difference. Different springs rates, different stabiliser bar rates, can't get as much caster on the GTR so the camber is different, we have a control tyre (Yokohama A032R) so the tyres are at least the same.

Thanks foir your supoort and I will pass on to Dave and Phil your wishes to "keep beating the Commondoors"

[Roy]

Well with new RE55s, it looks as though even with the swaybars on the hardest setting i need a touch more neg camber on the rear, currently -1.2, so perhaps 1-.6 to -1.8...and the front looks as thogh it could do with a bit more as well. so going from -1.8 to perhaps -2.5.

The thing wear tyres really nicely on the street at the moment, so dont want to go down the -3.5 fron camber i had before as it simply ate tyres and want convinced it was the better way to go.

[Sydneykid]

Well with new RE55s, it looks as though even with the swaybars on the hardest setting i need a touch more neg camber on the rear, currently -1.2, so perhaps 1-.6 to -1.8...and the front looks as thogh it could do with a bit more as well. so going from -1.8 to perhaps -2.5.

The thing wear tyres really nicely on the street at the moment, so dont want to go down the -3.5 fron camber i had before as it simply ate tyres and want convinced it was the better way to go.

Hi Roy what I have found is the Whiteline camber adjustable bushes on minimum (~1.5 degreee neg) give good street handling and wear. Then rotate them to maximum (~3.0 degrees neg) when you jack the car up to change the tyres for the track day. The min/max adjustment doesn't require any fancy measuring once you have set it up.

[Roy]

Ah thats a good idea:thumbsup:

Though i have a knock in the front end at the track so suspect i have killed another set of bushes:( I just cant keep the grease up to them:(

So looking for some adjustable upper arms which will make adjusting the camber in the front easier again...or so i hope

[drifto]

Been a while but i'm back.

Suspension completely renewed as follows:

Front springs 500lb

Rear springs 400lb

Front sway bar 27mm

Rear sway bar 22mm

The bilsteins were completely rebuilt and dynoed with some drastic changes to the valving rates especially the rear where i've gone from a 250lb spring to 400lb

On the road it's amazing, obviously very stiff but the car stays balanced even over large bumps and rough surfaces. The shocks are doing a great job of keeping the tyres in contact with the road.

I tested it pretty hard on some well known rough and twisty roads down my neck of the woods and it's like a new car.

Drift is awsome too with so much more precision and predictability available.

The car doesn't pitch under heavy breaking like it used too keeping the arse on the ground and the weight transfer to the front on corner entry is reduced.

It is of course a little hard to get good power down out of slow corners but that's all gone to shit now any way since i destroyed my pinion in the Kaaz diff and slotted the stock viscous job back in.

Because of the diff i have not visited the track since and missed round three at Wakefield. Will update track times and characteristics soon when the diffs fixed.