Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can pick up a couple of 19 row "oil" coolers for a good price at the moment. I am just curious, as the car is slowly getting to be a majoritly track driven car with occasional street use, if theres any gain in getting two extra coolers and using them as rear diff and transfer case coolers??

Granted the fluids would always be running through them, is there any down side to street driving with the transfer case and rear diff fluids always being cooled (I assume they would get quite hot being continuously flogged on a track)?

Also suggestions on mounting them... I have seen some Japanese based track cars with them mounted under the rear section of the car near the fuel tank. Would they get adequate cool air under the car??

Any info muchly appreciated :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69018-diff-transfer-case-coolers/
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...
Yes, but don't forget to factor in the pump, lines etc etc.

see the PDF I posted with the Aus GTR spec transfer case cooler pic in this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=68975

The short cut doent take me to the PDF - can you send it to me?

thx Mike

Does anyone have a drawing of an oil cooler and oil pump set up for the GTR transfer case and also diff ? - where to pick up oil from the transfer case & diff and where to mount the pump and cooler?

Where do people get their pumps from - Weldon and what other pumps are available that will do the job?

Appreciate any assistance

it would be perfect to cool the diff´s and the center case.

but only do that with thermostat fitted in every system, which allows the oil to warm up quickly. and only if the temp. exceeds 70-80 degress Celius the thermostat open the cooling cycle.

so everything would be fine on street and track use.

i think the temps. of the oil in the diff´s, gearbox and so on should be between 80-100 degrees celsius.

if temps go higer the fluid will become thinner and the system will loose pressure.

Edited by jogge
  • 1 year later...

Heya all :)

Sorry for the dig, but what came of this??

I have found the following part numbers for the OEM aus-spec transfer case cooler setup but would love to see a diagram/pic of the OEM setup or anyones aftermarket job!

post-28560-0-12611200-1318122569_thumb.jpg

Mark :)

HPI japan actually make a universal transmission and diff cooler kits but looking around $800 a kit but comes with everything. Should hopefully be able to make your own for less then that.

Heya there Luke :)

Thanks for the info. I've come across some extra info and pics.

post-28560-0-65163900-1318143189_thumb.jpg

To get all DIY, there's a '5R Racing' brand pump that's a rebranded VDO 12v high temperature, low pressure, oil pump with an operating temp to 150deg C. They seem to be a bit over $300AUD on the net, so through usual workshop contacts, I'm sure it'll come down to a bit over $200 for the pump alone. I've read they're available through Repco, but I haven't checked as yet (Rocket Industries etc sell them too, but prepare to be bent over).

Weldon also have a #9200-A oil transfer pump that is made for this application, but obviously $$$ unless you know someone with an Earls account ;)

Some extra pics I've found for future reference:

post-28560-0-76791000-1318143426_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-05990600-1318143430_thumb.jpg

Remember that being a low pressure system, high pressure hoses and fittings aren't necessary as you'll easily blow >$100 on fittings to make something under the car look fancy (and braided hose/fittings are also heavier than pushlock hose/fittings!!)

Just some extra info for now,

Mark :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...