Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I had a quick tune done today, dyno's to be posted up when I can get a colour scanner, in summary

285Kw at all 4, with 19lb boost and 6800 torque.

The good news is

245kw at all 4 with 13lb boost.

I will chat more later!

PS I wanted a very SAFE tune for the track and I was not hunting peak power, so no

B!tching about 285 not being much.

I gotta say that people are getting very skewed in their perspectives if they think that 285awkw is "not being much" :D

That is MORE than enough power for the street and weekend circuit racing :)

Well done Paul :)

Neh, just got them cleaned. Nathan did it for me. Changing an air filter this week and will get an exhaust in the next month or so. And then we'll see what's happenning. After the injector cleaning and timing+idle adjustments it almost feels like carby car - no more throttle lag.

All,

As promised, below are my 3 dyno maps from last week. The boost hit 14lb and then dropped to 13lb. 245Kw at all 4 with 13lb makes for a fun drive. The other line on the graph is the default PFC, it was running lean which was a supprise, but more power with more saftey is the way.

Im crusing at 10psi around the street which is lots of fun.

My final figures at all 4 were as follows.

225Kw with 11spsi dropping to 10psi

245kw with 14psi droping to 13 psi

265kw with 17psi dropping to 16psi

282kw with 20psi dropping to 19psi

I tune was done by CRD cost $650

I asked for a safe road/track tune and I did not care about numbers.

Im crusing at 10psi around the street which is lots of fun.

I think I will grab one of those new pot belly cats and some cam sprokets and hope fully pop the 300 mark

congrats on your results mate!

this is the gt-ss setup right?

1 question:

if im not not mistaken...i remember you originally had the car tuned by UAS, it is now tuned by CRD - why the change?

pls correct me if im wrong :P

regards,

marko.

Marko,

I used to own a white R33 v-spec with GTRS's, its now owned by mik.

I now own a R34 VspecII with GTSS, check out the inital post for the complete kit list.

I used CRD due to Kabab with cheese's recommendations as he had a good outcome with his GTSS's.

My first option was to use UAS, I had my R33 done there them and I was happy but a retune on the same car by Bel yielded heaps more power.

I then wanted to use Bel, but I had a friend with a not so positive outcome and had a re-tune with JEM who said he was the best.

Kabab then highlighted the difference between JEM and CRD.

Im sure if I had UAS re-tune my car they could get more, but opinions about tuner's are like a$$holes, everyone has one. At the end of the day $650 for a CRD tune with dyno included was not offensive and I followed your's and kababs positive outcomes.

Deciding who to employ for tuning after spending $$$ on an engine setup can be stressful & daunting, I know i've been there!

...it is easy to lose trust & confidence in mechanics/tuners especially after being stung a no. of times.

Only "you" would know the difference in performance after Jim's tune @ CRD.:bananaman

Enjoy your car & tune!

Marko.

I found this old dyno from the R33. Below is the mod list but it really needed cams to get the GTRS's to do anything.

GTRS turbo's

Power FC & Hand controller

Power FC boost Kit

FMC custom 720mm x 360mm x 72mm

3" June exhaust

HKS cam sprockets

550cc Inj

Oil Cooler

3 Core Brass Radiator

Sump Baffle

Head restrictor

Metal head gasket

3000lb brass button clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
×
×
  • Create New...