Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a feeling that this particular turbo have steel inlet wheel.

Same ceramic exhaust wheel.

I would say that the boost and power levels would be close enough to the same.

I think on the series II R34, there was a 20nm hike in torque, but saem 206kw power rating.

BASS OUT

I wouldn't think so.

I'd say that there were either engineering computations that said the nylon compressor wouldn't suit the slightly raised torque, or they didn't want to do another build of the turbos because they were running the model out.

I thought that Japan had a max allowable output of 206kw by law, and everything was claimed to be 206 when in actual fact they were putting out more (closer to 220kw in series 3 GTT)

First they had the engine capacity restriction, until a clever guy invented the turbo, then they had a max power output to combat that. Next thing you'll prolly see is all carbon fibre or plastic panels to get a better power/weight ratio! =-D

  • 3 months later...

the 206kW isn't a law, its more of an unspoken agreement...

its like in golf, how you don't walk on someone's line on the green.. there's no law, its respect for the othere players game

cf respecting other car companies overall car quality rather than just their power output

And on the topic, i have an R33 series 2 turbo with 45v2 on the side, and it definately has the nylon compressor wheel...

  • 4 years later...

99% sure they are the same mate, differences between the RB25DET and RB25DET Neo are all internal not external, so parts like that should be a straight match.

Can anyone else with a bit more knowledge confirm that?

  • 2 months later...

Bump. I would like a confirmation of the above, as I need to have my manifold > turbo bolts done, and workshop suggested just going straight to drilling+retapping them which will be expensive. My other option is a NEO exhaust manifold off a mate for cheap, low kms. Will it be a direct replacement for my s1 R33 RB25 engine?

Also, how much are they roughly worth second hand for below 50,000kms?

Thanks

  • 5 years later...

not sure if its ba bf fg fgt

but I'm havin bad luck eit​her way motherf**kers :

The car I bought had bl​own the turbo and didnt get around to fittin the f6 one and bought an f6 car himself & lost interest.

​SO:

I got turbo all hooked up (f6), dump made, lines done then start up and oil in entry and exit of turbo and lots of smoke. FK

So I buy a r33 turbo for rego and cut/ weld its dump to suit and redo the lines and again FK I get oil out the dump this time... FK but getting money bak

So this arvy I'm getting an ​r34 turbo for reg, taken off a running r34 to upgrade. Temporarily I will run this until I sell/ rebuild & sell or rebuild and use this gt35.

this will be the 3rd turbo bolted to it in under 2 weeks lol.

xx​

  • 1 year later...

Hi all I'm doing a little research as I'm after stock reliability for my track car so going back to standard Nissan turbo on my r32 rb25det s2 from my aftermarket set up.

 

read this post and others -

what id love to know is what is the 'best' standard Nissan turbo to use.

i recently bought an Op6 then realised it has the single blade nylon compressor wheel (45v1) and rear steel wheel (shown as have having 6 point hex nut). From other posts I see this turbo is good up to 12psi.

Now this week mate wants to sell me his op6 turbo for a decent price - this turbo appears to have twin blade (metal) compressor wheel and 45v3 on it. What boost would this turbo be rated too -

overall which turbo is better??

 

 

 

7 hours ago, H@ME said:

Hi all I'm doing a little research as I'm after stock reliability for my track car so going back to standard Nissan turbo on my r32 rb25det s2 from my aftermarket set up.

 

read this post and others -

what id love to know is what is the 'best' standard Nissan turbo to use.

i recently bought an Op6 then realised it has the single blade nylon compressor wheel (45v1) and rear steel wheel (shown as have having 6 point hex nut). From other posts I see this turbo is good up to 12psi.

Now this week mate wants to sell me his op6 turbo for a decent price - this turbo appears to have twin blade (metal) compressor wheel and 45v3 on it. What boost would this turbo be rated too -

overall which turbo is better??

 

No OP6 turbo has the bit I bolded above.  Regardless, any Nissan/Hitachi turbo with either or both of ceramic rear or plastic compressor should be run at more than 12 psi.  Not that this is the "limit".....they're just increasingly likely to explode as you wind the boost up and below 12 psi it's a bit less likely than it is above 12 psi.  Some die at 7 psi.

Realistically, there is no such thing as "stock reliability" when talking about these turbos.  Especially when talking about a track car.  That is the place where you will certainly kill them.

  • Like 1

That's how it looks when you run the turbo over 12PSI ..

Never found the turbine wheel I guess it went straight through the exhaust.

The compressor is nylon btw. (this coming off an 1998 S2)

 

Actually I was running this turbo at 14PSI for a while and thought I was lucky.

But when I went to the drag strip and floored it went on the first run :(

BALL.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...