Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm running a Motec M4 ecu on my RB26 in a S13 200sx and I'm trying to get the tacho to work. I'm using a R32 GTR tacho. I've set up the ECU so one of the AUX outputs is set to the tacho signal. I hooked up a multimeter to this wire and I get a RPM / 10000 signal (ie, 800rpm = 0.08 volts) which I've since found out from other theads that the tacho doesn't use this type of signal.

Is there anything I can do to change this signal so the tacho can read it? Or can I use another signal from the ECU that the tacho can use?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69143-hooking-up-tacho-to-motec-m4-ecu/
Share on other sites

Most tacho's use frequency to drive them. i.e a fixed duty cycle of 50% and the frequency increases proportionaly with revs. I don't know about the Motec, but my Haltech has a tacho aux. output. You set the "pull-up" value and duty cycle to 50% in the software, and your done. Maybe double check the Motec for this type of output?

RB30-POWER, the current switchover points are on at 1500 and off at 4250. 'Seat-of-pants' testing suggested a slightly lower switch off point than 4500, but i haven't backed this up with dyno testing. Also, the position of my cam belt tensioners didn't allow the cams to line up correctly, so from memory they are both advanced about 5-7 crank degrees. Me thinks some adjustable gears will be going in shortly.

Sorry bout the hijack Robert_NZ....

Cheers, yeah it makes sense that the switchoff point would be lower on the larger 3L motor. It would be taking the same air as the rb25det but much lower in the rpm range. With the stock cams anyway.

Also i think the VCT side cam gear could be adjusted by the four bolts on the rear of the gear. Might get that 5 or so degrees back to standard.

I have heard of people adjusting the VCT gear by this method with great results, but i don't know if the adjustment is for that purpose, or wether its to adjust the actual operation of the cam gear mechanism itself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...