Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Close. It's actually a mid 60's holden....and it's tight fit.

Height is probably not so much of an issue as ic pipework.

Mid 60's, mmmmmm EH perhaps?

I would run a 120 degree bend at the throttle body, that will avoid the cross over pipe behind the radiator. This one has the intercooler pipework running outboard of the top radiator hose. It is more common to run the intercooler pipework inboard of the top radiator hose as it lessens the sharpness of the bend at the RHS subframe.

pic4sau1.jpg

Hope that is of some help.:P

So when does the factory plenum become a problem then?

If im soon to be running a GT35r on a HKS lowmount manifold with a 45mm ext. gate running 20 psi, would the std plenum still be good to use?

I think (may not be right :P) that it will be like in the region of 530 odd BHP?

*discalimer*- im not here to start a war...peace forever with the std plenum i say :cheers:

Mid 60's, mmmmmm EH perhaps?

Yep.

I'm not entirely convinced thats going to work, but i'll check it out. I'd have to go outboard of the radiator hose because there's virtually no space anywhere in front of the engine (it's so tight that I had to get one of the pulley hubs machined off the harmonic balancer to fit).

Yep.

I'm not entirely convinced thats going to work, but i'll check it out. I'd have to go outboard of the radiator hose because there's virtually no space anywhere in front of the engine (it's so tight that I had to get one of the pulley hubs machined off the harmonic balancer to fit).

Yep, the red motor is bit shorter than an RB, the bell housing is a fair bit bigger as well. I drove an EH with an RB30ET in it a few years back. Went real well:cheers:

Ok, this is my problem, its going into a drift spec 180sx, i've moved the engine back into the bulk head to move the weight off the front and behind the axles but not really the main reason for doing this, i've got a front V-mount Greddy intercooler (i.e made room for it).

So basicly because the engine is far back the plenum is crashing into the strut brace and at the very front hiting the bonnet, i've got a S15 front end on the car and the bonnet sits lower then standard ect.

Need to sort somthing out as i don't have the time to make one that works.

now your going to say well get the bonnet to sit higer and make a strut brace that goes around it, but the biggest problem of all its in the way of the brake servo :eek:

as i say don't need it to be any better then the stock one as i know thats good, just not be any worse.

Thanx you

i know the problem you are having here is a pic of my setup it loks like we are both going the same path with the engine build and i was looking for a plenum aswell

my throttle body hits the bonnet to at the moment

but it fits the reason i want to move mine is that i cant fit any desent sized thermos cuz of the pipe work and i want to keep under bonnet and inlet temps down so i dont have to cross infront of the radiator and back over the engine

silviarb2032dj.jpg

Ok, this is my problem, its going into a drift spec 180sx, i've moved the engine back into the bulk head to move the weight off the front and behind the axles but not really the main reason for doing this, i've got a front V-mount Greddy intercooler (i.e made room for it).

So basicly because the engine is far back the plenum is crashing into the strut brace and at the very front hiting the bonnet, i've got a S15 front end on the car and the bonnet sits lower then standard ect.  

Need to sort somthing out as i don't have the time to make one that works.

now your going to say well get the bonnet to sit higer and make a strut brace that goes around it, but the biggest problem of all its in the way of the brake servo :eek:

as i say don't need it to be any better then the stock one as i know thats good, just not be any worse.

Thanx you

If you are really seriuous about drifting, an RB in a S13/14/15 chasis is not a smart move. It moves the centre of gravity up too high at the front (that's why it hits on the bonnet) so the change of direction induces excessive roll. Even worse, it moves the polar moment of inertia a long way forward, so maintaining a drift becomes very difficult. I am not a big fan of SR20's, but you really should consider your options.

If you have gone too far down the RB path to turn back, then the RIPS inlet looks to provide the best option for throttle control, which is what you are going ot need. It's not perfect, but if you have painted yourself into a corner you don't have a lot of choices. You will just have to be mindful of the differential tuning requirements of each cylinder.

cheers:

If you have gone too far down the RB path to turn back, then the RIPS inlet looks to provide the best option for throttle control, which is what you are going ot need. It's not perfect, but if you have painted yourself into a corner you don't have a lot of choices. You will just have to be mindful of the differential tuning requirements of each cylinder.

Unfortunately SK I think i'm in this position as well....but i'll still check out your first suggestion. Damn painting myself into corners....

I understand were you coming from SK, and i've had this on my mind from the begining but this is something i really want to do, i had a go in a S13 with a RB25DET conversion and it really did make the front end planted at high speeds (noramly understeer) so i'm more then happy with how it will feel at the end of all this.

The engine is very low tbh, i've had to make a new sump for it as i've retained the stock RS13 crossmember and made very low brakets ect, but its just that bloody intake being so high.

My options were my CA18DET tunned up, or RB20DET tuned up, i hate the bent cam so it was close call between the two.

you do get feed up of changing the bottom ends on the CA :wack:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of your suspension bushes/bolts etc, should also only ever be tightened when the car is sitting with full weight too.   IE, jack it back up, shove a heap of stuff down so you can lower the wheels onto so the car is "on the ground" but you have room to get under it.   It's why when properly done, you should be able to remove the shock and spring, but the arms won't go to 100% droop. If you don't do the above, you'll destroy your bushes.
    • We have some more genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates in stock 🙂, as well as the plain white 40mm hole cover: Tama 400 No 12-41: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-no-1241 Morioka 300 Te 43-58: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-te-4358 Plain White 40mm Hole Cover: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-40mm-hole-cover-white There's also a yellow plate for Kei cars with the corresponding yellow 40mm hole cover sold as a set: Tsukuba 581 Ii 64-66: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-single-number-plate-ii-6466 Also some Skyline 1/43 scale models: 1989 BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R (Silver): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/rare-ebbro-oldies-2006-release-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gtr-silver 1989 HCR32 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M (Red): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/kyosho-original-1-43-hcr32-nissan-skyline-gts-t-type-m-red
    • These arrived today! Sadly I'm going to probably be smart and enjoy the car as is over the summer/sunny period and save the ~2 weeks downtime it'd take to swap the heads over and tune later in the year. Maybe. It's going to be pretty damn tempting seeing these bolt on funs just sitting in storage when they're ready to go. There's a non-zero chance I end up @The Bogan'ing it.
    • MZ11 Toyota Soarer in Iwata, Higashi Osaka
×
×
  • Create New...