Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi :(

I know at least a couple of people have HKS GT-RS turbos on their R33 Skylines, and have seen some dyno results from people using them - but there are a couple of questions which have I've had that I haven't found answered yet:

What boost level is the actuator that comes with the turbo set to?

Do people use the factory fuel system - or upgrade the pump? Injectors?

What kind of 1/4 mile times have people with them on R33s achieved?

Any input would be appreciated :(

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69158-hks-gt-rs-questions/
Share on other sites

hi mate i think they upgrade the fuel system with the turbo.It makes allot of scence.

P.S. Allot of people say that the hks actuators are set at 1bar permanent but i belive that this is not the case as how can people not have a lower seting of boost for their given application.

I think that it is the recomended pressure that they run best at most efficiently for heat created spoolup,response and peak hold psi.IMO not many others i think though.

Not sure what boost level the actuator comes set at but the minimum boost I can run is 0.9 although it still seems to sit at 15psi anyway, max boost is 1.2 with stock internals.

I have a bosch 044 fuel pump and 555cc nismo injectors.

Have not taken it to drags yet but got 270rwkw and not to much lag so should be in the 12s depending on tires?

This is what I found on google

Direct bolt-on to stock manifold. Includes 0.9kg Actuator, Gaskets and other Hardware. S13 requires custom or modified oil/coolant lines.

52T / A/R 0.64 / T25 Inlet / Internal Wastegate

Not sure what boost level the actuator comes set at but the minimum boost I can run is 0.9 although it still seems to sit at 15psi anyway, max boost is 1.2 with stock internals.

I have a bosch 044 fuel pump and 555cc nismo injectors.

Have not taken it to drags yet but got 270rwkw and not to much lag so should be in the 12s depending on tires?

Awesome - thanks a lot :P That pretty much covers what I was looking for.

So it drives fairly well like a pretty standard R33 when not giving it some??

Reedy, Wat rpm range does it spool up and create full boost by i am looking at putting one on my rb20 soon but i havent been able to find out wat rough area it will spool up by i've got the stock rb25 series 1 turbo on my car at the moment and i dont get full boost untill around 4000rpm lil bit after running 14psi lil bit before running 10psi.. so yer any info on spool of GTRS would be helpful thanks :D

On WWW.HKS-POWER.CO.JP (warning... in japanese) you can go to the turbos menu, and there is a section called "RB20-25" or something like that, which has a section on the GT-RS and GT2530Kai kits for R32 and R33 GTSt Skylines. It shows boost plots and dyno plots comparing between a stock R33 turbo and a GTRS or GT2530Kai to get an idea of comparative power/torque/spool performance.

The GT-RS at least on paper looks SLIGHTLY laggier than the R33 turbo, maybe ~300-400rpm later at most to reach the same boost level on an Rb25. The 2530Kai looks like its better right through the rev range than the R33 turbo. From what I've seen around the place, the 2530Kai looks like what I'd consider the perfect turbo for a "street tune" R32 GTSt with an RB20DET. Slightly better down low, and much better up high and with higher boost levels than the R33 unit.

I'm just looking for what realistcally I'd have to expect in terms of set up and general driving with one :D I have no doubt I'll like the full throttle performance of a GT-RS.

My mods are;

-Full 3 inch exhaust

-FMIC

-Bosch 044 fuel pump

-Spitfire ignition coils

-Power FC and boost kit

-Adjustable exhaust cam gear

-Nismo 555cc injectors

-HKS GT-RS turbo kit

-Z32 AFM

-Xtreme billet lightened flywheel

-UAS sports clutch kit

-Tein super street coilovers

-Whiteline front and rear swaybars

-JIC tension rods, front negative upper link, rear adjustable upper link

ahh k so not really all that much difference but yer i think i might go one of these GTRS's on the rb20 put a set of pon cams in to reduce a little bit of lag.. nice setup :rofl:

thats pretty much what i hope to do in the near future :)

;)

What I had hoped I'd be able to get away with is getting a decent fuel pump , a PFC, FMIC and a GT-RS kit and get it tuned on the minimum boost setting - is it fair to say that even if I wanted to run the "minimum" I'd still need the bigger injectors?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
×
×
  • Create New...