Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was actualy looking at goin 600cc nismo injectors.. wolf3d (**** that afm off) and yer mods to go along with it

You need a job first warick, removing the AFM isn't always the case!

P.S who's tuning it up here!

i was actualy looking at goin 600cc nismo injectors.. wolf3d (**** that afm off) and yer mods to go along with it

Had a wolf before I got the power fc, wouldn't recommend it, as it was send really high coil charge time causing car to misfire constantly at high boost and fry most of the coils that why I got spitfires, also idle and cold start where really bad compared to power fc's but if you have really good tuner might be alright.

nat maybe mind your own business and no ones tuning it up here.. wouldnt let anyone up here touch it no matter wat computer i put in the car ofcourse a trip to bris will be in order by the time i get everything in so yer..

i just have a thing.. i dont like afms :) they can fail... they need cleaning blah blah blah

job meh..

*edit* and if your goin to type my name instead of just waz or wazz or watever.. ITS WARRICK not warick or warwick

blah

I've heard stock injectors are alright under 250 rwkw and 1 bar should be under that without cam and coils. You'd also need a Z32 air flow for more boost anyway, also might be worth looking into 2nd gtr injectors as my 555cc injectors max duty are only about 70%.

Sweet cheers. I have to buy a new turbo anyway, but can't afford to do the clutch, AFM, PFC, injectors and pump, FMIC and GT-RS all in one shot.

Does it sound silly if I get what I can afford (basically everything but the AFM, injectors and pump) and use an R33 actuator on the GT-RS to keep boost right down just to get the car on the road, even though it won't be all that special until I can afford the fuel etc upgrades? As it is at the moment I don't have a running car (other one was written off) so the fact it won't be running anywhere near potential won't bother me.

Reedy - thats because of the actuator that HKS supply with it. As I said before, I I'd like to run an R33 one on it - which is sprung to around 7psi. That way, in theory - the minimum I'd be able to run would now be 7-8psi :P

my understanding of the stock r33 turbo system is the spring is 5psi and the dual stage boost solenoid it uses opens the boost level to 7psi after 4500rpm. is this not the case? my r33 came like this and many others have too and theres an easy way to bypass that as well. with my hks evc turned off im stuck at the spring level which is 5psi

correct me if im wrong i just thought that was how it worked

The least I ever managed to get mine to was 7psi (the R33 electronic boost solenoid raised it to just under 9psi at 4500rpm). Not 100% relevant anyway, I want to know if it'd be safe like this :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...