Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was actualy looking at goin 600cc nismo injectors.. wolf3d (**** that afm off) and yer mods to go along with it

You need a job first warick, removing the AFM isn't always the case!

P.S who's tuning it up here!

i was actualy looking at goin 600cc nismo injectors.. wolf3d (**** that afm off) and yer mods to go along with it

Had a wolf before I got the power fc, wouldn't recommend it, as it was send really high coil charge time causing car to misfire constantly at high boost and fry most of the coils that why I got spitfires, also idle and cold start where really bad compared to power fc's but if you have really good tuner might be alright.

nat maybe mind your own business and no ones tuning it up here.. wouldnt let anyone up here touch it no matter wat computer i put in the car ofcourse a trip to bris will be in order by the time i get everything in so yer..

i just have a thing.. i dont like afms :) they can fail... they need cleaning blah blah blah

job meh..

*edit* and if your goin to type my name instead of just waz or wazz or watever.. ITS WARRICK not warick or warwick

blah

I've heard stock injectors are alright under 250 rwkw and 1 bar should be under that without cam and coils. You'd also need a Z32 air flow for more boost anyway, also might be worth looking into 2nd gtr injectors as my 555cc injectors max duty are only about 70%.

Sweet cheers. I have to buy a new turbo anyway, but can't afford to do the clutch, AFM, PFC, injectors and pump, FMIC and GT-RS all in one shot.

Does it sound silly if I get what I can afford (basically everything but the AFM, injectors and pump) and use an R33 actuator on the GT-RS to keep boost right down just to get the car on the road, even though it won't be all that special until I can afford the fuel etc upgrades? As it is at the moment I don't have a running car (other one was written off) so the fact it won't be running anywhere near potential won't bother me.

Reedy - thats because of the actuator that HKS supply with it. As I said before, I I'd like to run an R33 one on it - which is sprung to around 7psi. That way, in theory - the minimum I'd be able to run would now be 7-8psi :P

my understanding of the stock r33 turbo system is the spring is 5psi and the dual stage boost solenoid it uses opens the boost level to 7psi after 4500rpm. is this not the case? my r33 came like this and many others have too and theres an easy way to bypass that as well. with my hks evc turned off im stuck at the spring level which is 5psi

correct me if im wrong i just thought that was how it worked

The least I ever managed to get mine to was 7psi (the R33 electronic boost solenoid raised it to just under 9psi at 4500rpm). Not 100% relevant anyway, I want to know if it'd be safe like this :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...