Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol.. your old clutch didn't look too healthy though cubes :D

there is some good info on stockists and part numbers and all the rest at www.xtremeclutch.com.au - it is the same clutch for R32 and r33 :D

I am not sure whether just to just get an exchange on the old one when i do the manual conv, or go for something else.. like the Excedy.. which i really liked on the old car.

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The pressure plate is fine.

Grab a clutch plate, maybe even the 9puk ceramic and bolt it up. :D

Much cheaper than buying the whole lot. The pressure plate was driven fairly easy (no clutch drops) so its still in good nick. :D

With the 1tonne clutch I find I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I always throw it in neutral. Peak hour traffic makes your leg damn sore and begin to shake. :D

The 800kg clutch didn't hurt my leg in peak hour traffic.

For 230rwkw go for a 800kg pressure plate & a 9puk ceramic cushioned clutch plate.

I wouldn't use an organic full face clutch for 200rwkw+. Ride it a little in first and it will slip in second. :(

With the 1tonne clutch I find I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I always throw it in neutral. Peak hour traffic makes your leg damn sore and begin to shake. :D

Β 

The 800kg clutch didn't hurt my leg in peak hour traffic.

Β 

For 230rwkw go for a 800kg pressure plate & a 9puk ceramic cushioned clutch plate.

I wouldn't use an organic full face clutch for 200rwkw+. Ride it a little in first and it will slip in second. :(

Thanks - I will get that then.

Ceramic cushioned clutch plate...

That's this one right?

Dampened Centre, cushioned segment between lining, Multiple sintered button lining bonded to steel backing. Sintered lining offers greater torque capacity, much higher coefficient of friction and higher heat stability and dissipation.

Offers great driveability with the advantages of using a sintered lining, relatively smooth and positive engagement, suited for street and sprint use.

The same as the 2nd one on the list http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/knowledge_ratings.htm - if that's the one you're recommending then I'll get that one.

Clutches have been confusing me for the last 2 weeks of been looking for one :D

Thanks again for your help.

Second on the list is the 1000kg. hence XHD and the one I have now that handles around 300rwkw.

The 800kg is the first one on the list, a little lighter on the foot but more than enough performance for 230rwkw.

DCBHD is the one I would look at if I was in your postion.

I have a 9 puck XHD on the way as well after the diaphram in my twin plate snapped in 2 and it was in need of new plates as well on opening it up. As it was only a TS2A (380hp rated) i dont think it would have been up for the caning it would get behind the rb25 anyway.

I'm currently driving around with my stock RB20 clutch in, so nice to drive after a 1000kg bitey unsprung super light clutch and flywheel combo.

So hopefully the new clutch is nice to drive. I'm a bit more confident after reading this thread.

i have the xtreme 9 puk version, its not THAT heavy and drives very nice (espec compared to the triple plate i had) however after doing a couple launches (gtr) it doesnt seem to fully grip as best as id like it to - as in it slips or cant take the load well.. The triple plate was amazing but undrivable as a daily

Second on the list is the 1000kg. hence XHD and the one I have now that handles around 300rwkw.

Β 

The 800kg is the first one on the list, a little lighter on the foot but more than enough performance for 230rwkw.

Β 

DCBHD is the one I would look at if I was in your postion.

Thanks Cubes, I'll get that one.

How many puk is this ? (what's a puk!?) :P It's 9 right? the number of contact area things?

Sorry for the questions but I've heard alot of terms and none of them really seem to 'match up'/be comparable.

me.. tuner? heh don't have one :P

I'll take your word for it. I'm basically looking for a clutch 3-4 steps up from a organic HD and 1-2 steps down from a brass button (ie can be hard to use but prefer it to be a little lighter and would prefer a bit of ride).

So - all is good, if it takes my power level that's what I'm mainly concerned with. I just hope it doesn't kill my gearbox + flywheel :)

Cheers for your help.

emailed horsepowerinabox, they offer that clutch Cubes has pictured for $750 delivered. Β 

"Xtreme DCB unit in Xtra Heavy duty 50% over OEM"

Pretty sure the one for $550 offers 100% over OEM.

Got quoted from them for $625 delivered for KNI24003DCBXHD.

This is the 1 tonne clutch kit (extra hd)..

As Cubes suggested I'm trying to get a quote for the KNI24003DCBHD which is the HD not XHD (the 800kg one) which, is cheaper.

Anyone with a skyline please don't use these part numbers as they are for a SR20DET!

I'm wondering why the quote you got is more than $100 more? Surely the SR and RB clutch kits can't be that different?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yes, fair enough! I was purely thinking about cleaning the spokes and front of the wheel with the mitt. For the barrel the rag on a stick makes more sense. I've tried cleaning the barrels on mine and gave up in frustration. Between brakes being in the way or spokes being in the way and limited space to constantly move the car front and back it was just too annoying. The barrel being as shiny as the rest of the wheel sounds amazing though. At this point I'm not even sure if they have the same surface finish on mine. But I feel inspired now to find out.
    • I have a wheel cleaner pokie thing which is a glorified microfibre rag on a stick, and there is not sufficient clearance between the caliper and the barrel to clean that section. I just roll the car forward 500mm and have another shot at each wheel.
    • The "rag on a stick" is a easy way to fit in between the wheel spokes into all of the barrel Albeit I do have 10 spokes on the MX5 which limits the access to actually jam my hand in to clean the barrel, but it was also makes much easier to clean the 5 spokes on the Dunnydoore with it as well, as you don't have to worry theΒ  caliper getting in the way if you have at least about 15mm space between the caliper and barrel This of course depends if you actually have the clearance between the barrel and caliper, and the amount of OCD you have to get the barrels as clean and shiny as the face of the wheel The thing is bendy as well so you can actually shape it to conform to the inner lip of the barrel Β 
    • FWIW, as well as a basic immobiliser/remote unlock (all basic units give you those 2 things), I would also install a 4g tracker in any car I cared about. Just hide it anywhere that won't be found in a rushed look and preferably get something with a built in battery backup so it stays online for a while when the battery is removed or flat While its not a car, when our car trailer was stolen in that den of crime Sydney about a decade ago, the cops were watching from the bloke's neighbour's lawn within about 2 hours until he started swapping the plates and putting up the gumtree ad.Β Β  Obviously it is still not undefeatable (eg parking it up for a few days somewhere without sky sight) but it greatly improves your chances of getting it back quickly and with less damage
    • Instead of magic keyphrases I wonder if something can be done with auto complete. Similar to how user names are handled already. When you type '@' and follow with letters, it'll search across all usernames. It might work to have the same for forum topics. Some key to trigger it and then text search across all thread names and it'll insert the name and URL when pressing enter.
Γ—
Γ—
  • Create New...