Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have an RB20DET tuned chip for sale for $50. This chip has had the speed (means you can now go over 180 kph) , fuel and boost (mass air flow) cut removed. The ignition and fuel maps optimised to help boost come on slightly and help reach max power.

To install the chip you will need to

- remove ECU from car.

- take the ECU to someone (electronics place) who will de-solder the stock chip

- once the stock chip is removed they will install a cradle.

- once the cradle is in you simply need to slot the new chip into the cradle

- then re-install the ECU.

If you are looking at purchasing a tuned chip or aftermarket ECU etc. you will notice that this price is very cheap. It is not too good to be true, I'm simply not interested in mucking around and would like to get it out there.

The chip will provide you with a top end improvement - it will feel as if the car breathes abit better. Unigroup commented at a SAU dyno day a while back that it was a good power tune. I wish that I had a dyno chart from the day with the A/F line on it - but I don't.

The chip was tuned for a car with FMIC, 1.2 bar boost, pod, exhaust - the usual stuff.

Below is some food for thought for RB20 tuners.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69291-rb20det-tuned-chip-50/
Share on other sites

Hi Ed,

It will run just fine at 13 psi (I run only 14 psi). I don't know how much of a difference you will notice on a reasonably stock engine - I recognise the most difference when boost gets up above 12 psi due to the removal of the mass air flow cut. I imagine that any auto electrician can do the work - really anyone with a solder sucker can do it.

Thanks, Ben.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 6 foot 91kg.   Thanks Brett, ill have a look into them!   Whoa 197 haha, I'm about 182 but not that far behind you in weight. My back is probably a little wider than most people my size and weight so I would most certainly need the XL seat by the sounds of it.  The car is insured to drive 1000km a year (might up that at some stage) but it would likely take me at least 5 years before I would ever get close to 15,000km. If I don't buy the real ones I kind of feel like I'm cheaping out though lol Spent all this money on good quality parts every where else just to cheap out on the seats? probably my OCD.  I did find these guys who are more local to me and have copy seats in stock.  https://vosta.com.au/collections/reclining-bucket-seats/products/japan-stadia-ii-gradation Or if I want to go genuine   https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/brand/bride-racing/?srsltid=AfmBOooYKfh5btzB8-ezRTTokM0AqQ3GyWKcfutaMRWBzosRLNSFQhLt
    • Good. I was worried we were still talking about the block. Yes, larger baffled sump is a good idea. Do not touch the pump unless you're going on a whole build saga. Read the oil control thread on here - at least the last 100 pages or so. We drew some reasonable things together in there. The short version is that venting the sump is more important than almost anything else you do.
    • Perhaps just get a proper mechanic who is good with Nissan autos (they were more or less the same across all the RWD, FWD, 4WD cars at that time, even if they were actually different boxes) to give it a good going over. He might be able to plug in a Consult or other scan tool and find out if it's got some fault codes. Otherwise, my approach to the problem if not liking the way the auto was workign behind my RB20 turbo, was to drop it on the workshop floor and put in the manual box that it really needed. That solved all the auto problems.
    • Gotcha, I mean that is at least good to hear. Are there signs, or troubleshooting tips to make sure the transmission is operating properly?
×
×
  • Create New...