Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does ne1 know of a way to may the lights on my R33 clear again it looks filthy when you turn them on!!!

The plastic has faded and is starting to crack =(

I have heard of plastic polish does ne1 know if this works?

Does ne1 know where i can get a replacement set for a decent price as i have been quoted $1000 for a new set!!! =(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69345-fixing-cracked-and-faded-lights/
Share on other sites

I use Meguiars ScratchX and it does the job nicely. It's a little bit pricey (about $20 a tube), but bonus is that you can use it on the rest of the car as well to get rid of light scratches, whereas you cannot with other things like plastic polish, toothpaste, Gumption etc.

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I do this at work, bit scary at first but it works.... If they're really bad, sandpaper first.... work your way up through the grades of wet and dry to 1500 or 2000.... then silicone free polish. Takes about an hour a pair, even on the worst condition lights.

  • 2 weeks later...

Try using silvo from Coles or woolies. about $8 for a can that will last you two lifetimes.

Using a cotton cloth... put some on it then rub in small circles with pressure.

Then buff off with a clean cotton rag.

Finally, to help protect the finish... add some car polish and then polish off as per usual.

This will cure the fading/yellowing problem but not the cracking.

Plastic gets old and doesn't like the sun... it cant be helped.

Edited by negoshi8or

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
    • Car looks clean as. You ended up getting quite a bit done 😂  So what's the plan for the exhaust? 
    • The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.  
    • Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.
    • Do u know how to identify the rods are rb25 or neo ones? Can u look into the pics and tell me is they de or de neo ones. Its confusing becoz my motor has de neo head but block is 25de 75t, so really confusing me about rods, crank.
×
×
  • Create New...