Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

I am about to attach my Z32 to the R32.

Upon inspecting the origional AFM wires I found some thing a little strange.

(see pic)

Is this normal for an RB20t to look like this (2 wires going in to 1 coax)?

I've attached the R33 S1 wiring instructions pic that will work with my rb20t as I've had a R33 S1 AFM on my R32.

The wiring instructions don't state the pinout for the r33, only the pinout for the Z32. :P

Would any one know the pinout for the R33 S1/R32 AFM.

I wouldn't want to run 12v through the signal. :cheers:

Thanks ppls.

I will have a look tonight Joel, I remember I used that diagram, plus a few other things I wrote down in my little car book I keep,

I know for sure the coxial part of the cable was not required to be soldered to anything, mine looked exactly the same when I stripped back the black plastic

will post it up tomorrow

No probs

I remember Roy telling me about a certain workshop in Vic that was swapping wires on his AFM while the car's ignition was on to work out which was the right one! Dodgy!

I've been doing a little fiddling ( not wire swapping :D )

It appears quite straight forward.

The Coax shields both the signal and signal ground (Unlike the Z32).

Pin outs are exactly the same. ;)

I need you to still confirm it if you can Chris. :rant:

It is still running on the base map so i'm unsure if anything will change when it is tuned Tuesday next week.

lol.. A free rev to 5000rpm hits 100% duty cycle. :( Can't work that one out, mind you it is boosting on a free rev. lol

Shall be very interestering how much power it makes on the stock turbo @ 11psi.

It feels much quicker than the rb20det running 16psi. :(

The AFM voltage in the sensor check definately reads lower.

The highest it now reaches is just over 4v.

With the rb20 afm it was hitting 4.98 volts. :P

So it must be doing something.

Just strange how the load points on the map still read the same.

It will be tuned with the std turbo on 11psi. bar & plate FMIC & 3" turbo back exhaust, std injectors, std airbox + 100mm cai into the inner guard.

It is just a 1hr quick tune to tidy up the map and throw a little more fuel in the bottom end and mid range. :D

I dont want to spend too much on the crappy std turbo. Only to see how it goes with the 3ltr out of curiosity.

I'm keen to see where peak power is made, I've heard of some making peak power (150-170rwkw) around 3500-4000rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...