Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

I am about to attach my Z32 to the R32.

Upon inspecting the origional AFM wires I found some thing a little strange.

(see pic)

Is this normal for an RB20t to look like this (2 wires going in to 1 coax)?

I've attached the R33 S1 wiring instructions pic that will work with my rb20t as I've had a R33 S1 AFM on my R32.

The wiring instructions don't state the pinout for the r33, only the pinout for the Z32. :P

Would any one know the pinout for the R33 S1/R32 AFM.

I wouldn't want to run 12v through the signal. :cheers:

Thanks ppls.

I will have a look tonight Joel, I remember I used that diagram, plus a few other things I wrote down in my little car book I keep,

I know for sure the coxial part of the cable was not required to be soldered to anything, mine looked exactly the same when I stripped back the black plastic

will post it up tomorrow

No probs

I remember Roy telling me about a certain workshop in Vic that was swapping wires on his AFM while the car's ignition was on to work out which was the right one! Dodgy!

I've been doing a little fiddling ( not wire swapping :D )

It appears quite straight forward.

The Coax shields both the signal and signal ground (Unlike the Z32).

Pin outs are exactly the same. ;)

I need you to still confirm it if you can Chris. :rant:

It is still running on the base map so i'm unsure if anything will change when it is tuned Tuesday next week.

lol.. A free rev to 5000rpm hits 100% duty cycle. :( Can't work that one out, mind you it is boosting on a free rev. lol

Shall be very interestering how much power it makes on the stock turbo @ 11psi.

It feels much quicker than the rb20det running 16psi. :(

The AFM voltage in the sensor check definately reads lower.

The highest it now reaches is just over 4v.

With the rb20 afm it was hitting 4.98 volts. :P

So it must be doing something.

Just strange how the load points on the map still read the same.

It will be tuned with the std turbo on 11psi. bar & plate FMIC & 3" turbo back exhaust, std injectors, std airbox + 100mm cai into the inner guard.

It is just a 1hr quick tune to tidy up the map and throw a little more fuel in the bottom end and mid range. :D

I dont want to spend too much on the crappy std turbo. Only to see how it goes with the 3ltr out of curiosity.

I'm keen to see where peak power is made, I've heard of some making peak power (150-170rwkw) around 3500-4000rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...