Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

where are the facts that the R34 GTR had 150% stiffer chassis?!?!?!? BS

I'd go the R33 GTR over the R34GT T any day! (besides, Tassie is wet mate - you need the 4WD!!!)

It's true i can dig up the article for you. I believe it was in a wheels or motor mag where they took 3 cars on a drive up and down the great ocean road. And it has a small boxout about the r32, 33, and 34 gtr's and their evolution over time. I'll have a look for it and hopefully my dad hasn't thrown it out.

Personally, I'd take the GTR. For a start, it's well - a GTR. This question is no different from asking whether a R33 GTSt is better than a 32 GTR. The only difference with this question is your factoring in the 'rare' factor of R34s...which will flood our market in the next three years I reckon. R34s are already becoming less rare, the rarity may be a factor right now but it won't be for long.

R34's a great looking car, but for those who say the R33 is ugly well, I disagree. Some versions of the R33 aren't so great looking, mainly maybe a stock series 1 R33 GTSt but next time you see a 33 GTR in person go up close and have a look. It's a very menacing, agressive, muscular looking car with a lot of presence.

It's true i can dig up the article for you. I believe it was in a wheels or motor mag where they took 3 cars on a drive up and down the great ocean road. And it has a small boxout about the r32, 33, and 34 gtr's and their evolution over time. I'll have a look for it and hopefully my dad hasn't thrown it out.

I'm more inclined to believe information from the factory, rather than Motor, or Wheels.... no offence.

An increase of 150% is just crazy, that would equate the R33 GTR to something like a limp noodle! The EVO 7 had a major structural change to the 6.5 (plus additional riviting, better casting, stronger materials) and even this was only a 50% gain in structural rigidity.....

Thanks every1 for ur comments and advice i think i will go for the R34 GT-t. newer, better lookin, RWD, VERY RARE in tassie! so now i need to get a R34 so can anyone help me with some names of decent importers? And thanks again everyone for all your help

Thanks every1 for ur comments and advice i think i will go for the R34 GT-t. newer, better lookin, RWD, VERY RARE in tassie! so now i need to get a R34 so can anyone help me with some names of decent importers? And thanks again everyone for all your help

Nnnnnoooooooo.... $20 says you will regret it in 6 months and want a GTR! :wassup:

as someone else in the thread said, most ppl would take an R32 GTR over an R33 GTST... only a matter of time now that the R34GTT becomes like the R33 GTST.

Still, both good cars - I'm just not sold on the look of the GTT. (it's not too late!!!) :D

There are lots of GTT importers, start with an edition of HPI....

I dont think he will regret it! Get the 34gts-t (A well modified gts-t goes harder than a stock GTR)(Actually not much difference with a big turbo setup - The motor has to be rebuild anyways.

I wouldnt swap my R33 GTS-T for any 32GTR lol!

Either way you are on track with a skyline mate! they are all good! (Well most of them lol!) :wassup:

Good luck, Also check the trading post (might find one on there)

Nnnnnoooooooo....  $20 says you will regret it in 6 months and want a GTR!  :wassup:  

as someone else in the thread said, most ppl would take an R32 GTR over an R33 GTST... only a matter of time now that the R34GTT becomes like the R33 GTST.

Still, both good cars - I'm just not sold on the look of the GTT.  (it's not too late!!!) :P

There are lots of GTT importers, start with an edition of HPI....

I'm more inclined to believe information from the factory, rather than Motor, or Wheels....  no offence.

An increase of 150% is just crazy, that would equate the R33 GTR to something like a limp noodle!  The EVO 7 had a major structural change to the 6.5 (plus additional riviting, better casting, stronger materials) and even this was only a 50% gain in structural rigidity.....

Well can i see your factory information then please?

Your best bet for buying a 34 gt-t is to buy one from a english speaking jap exporter, most have plenty to choose from in their stock lists. If you have time you can buy one directly from a jap auction through the jap exporter. what ever you do do not use a local aussie broker, I can not stress this enough. If you say importing is to hard and you dont mind paying extra to have it easier then just buy it from a car yard here in australia.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...