Jump to content
SAU Community

32 GTR rebuild

ricknismo

By ricknismo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ricknismo Grand Master

ricknismo

Posted
Posted

Finally finished my rebuild after about 7 weeks.

Did

40 thou over rebore

Arias forgies

match ported everything

reseated valves

regasketted everything

New big end and thrust bearings

N1 oil pump

N1 turbs

S/S dumps and fronts

Os giken twin plate

Os giken adj cam gears

Gates radiator hoses

Gates timing belt

Clear cam gear cover

Acid bath

All welsh plugs changed

Oil cooler and filter relocator

Anyway I am still in run-in time and the car seems a bit less than it used to be..I know I might be jumping the gun as I can't really get up it yet. But I have been around 5500rpm ish at 0.7 bar of boost and my 33 was always the 'lesser' car power wise....Just chasing thoughts

Could it be because we opened the piping so much it will take more exhaust gas to boost?

Is the engine just so new and tight?

I am looking forward to giving it a proper boot full but I must behave for a few more hundred k's...

The next step is injectors,pump and fc in case you were wondering why they weren't on the list.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/
Share on other sites
fsmout Collaborator

fsmout

Posted
Posted

could be the run in oil as well, i think mineral oil is harsher on the internals at high temp, but thats what it needs to bed the engine etc.

sweet build!! i have just done the exact same rebuild!!

i found that during the run in it also was abit down, but i got it tuned on the run in oil and it pulled 250rwkw on pits's dyno in 3rd at 1.2bar. It was running rich with the lower comp ratio

after the oil change it seems to be much smoother and rev's alot easier. i can feel the power earlier, and it feels like it may come on harder??

i will have it dynoed at the next dyno day & post the results. also pits's dyno results are usually at least 10% low??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/#findComment-1285363
Share on other sites
Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Finally finished my rebuild after about 7 weeks.

Did

40 thou over rebore

Arias forgies

match ported everything

reseated valves

regasketted everything

New big end and thrust bearings

N1 oil pump

N1 turbs

S/S dumps and fronts

Os giken twin plate

Os giken adj cam gears

Gates radiator hoses

Gates timing belt

Clear cam gear cover

Acid bath

All welsh plugs changed

Oil cooler and filter relocator

Anyway I am still in run-in time and the car seems a bit less than it used to be..I know I might be jumping the gun as I can't really get up it yet. But I have been around 5500rpm ish at 0.7 bar of boost and my 33 was always the 'lesser' car power wise....Just chasing thoughts

Could it be because we opened the piping so much it will take more exhaust gas to boost?

Is the engine just so new and tight?

I am looking forward to giving it a proper boot full but I must behave for a few more hundred k's...

The next step is injectors,pump and fc in case you were wondering why they weren't on the list.

did you open up the exhaust ports when doing the head??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/#findComment-1285463
Share on other sites
itbmils Proficient

itbmils

Posted
Posted

ricknismo

I have an R32 - and have just done the SAME rebuild, I'm also still runnin in (~1500klms on the dial so far) – I have R34 N1s with hks style non-turbulent dumps and a full 3.5” exhaust + the other stuff you mention

At 8psi - I'm gettin ~180awkw I'd say (I can keep up with a std WRX and VYSS)

B4 the rebuild I had about 210awkw – but my bottom end was shot (pots 4 and 6 totally rooted), no dumps, no port and polish blah blah blah

It does not rev out as smoothly as it did b4 - but it I'm not expecting things to fully loosen up until past 5000klms (at least) and I have lost the mineral oil

I have the PFC + Adj CAMS + 550cc injectors + Apexi EBC to install in the next week or so.

I'm expecting somewhere near 280awkw @ 1bar once this kit is installed and tuned

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/#findComment-1285877
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
ricknismo Grand Master

ricknismo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had a play today...found a major boost leak.

Here's a trick...I clamped a plastic cup in the rubber hoses where the air filters go, shoved an air compressor up the (or any) air line and pressurized the whole system...found a couple of leaks...Might still have a little one though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/#findComment-1316468
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
ricknismo Grand Master

ricknismo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I found the problem...Yeah.

The standard boost solenoid has a T that goes to the plenum on the same line as the actuators...This won't work with an aftermarket boost controller and stuffs around with the sensors I guess. I ran a new vacuum line dedicated to the actators and it all good now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/#findComment-1353301
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thomasLait
      New Stegea Owner

      By thomasLait · Posted

      Ya thankfully I've been able to drive it, it's pretty fun however I noticed yesterday while driving to work that my left side of the car is very wobbly, like any bump I go over it jolts the whole vehicle and pulls the steering wheel, I kicked the wheel a few times once I got home and it's a very distinct metal on metal clunk, so I guess I need to take a look at my suspension, maybe it's a control arm bushing or tie rod 
    • GTSBoy
      At first I thought these were knock offs....

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      With Tyroola, they're probably 10 years old. It's already pretty clear that they've given the job of copywriting their adverts to an artificial stupidity (which could be a Year 9 dropout, or someone recently arrived to Oz with almost no English).
    • Rezz
      At first I thought these were knock offs....

      By Rezz · Posted

      "Here's how it works: Buy a set of four Pirelli tyres." Hey I think these guys are on to something 🤣
    • TurboTapin
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Absolutely! I've been in love with them since I was a kid. I remember doing a school essay on Humvee's back in grade 5 haha. I always wanted one, but didn't have the space nor the funds. With us now looking for another larger home with a larger garage, I'll have room to park it. They have also gone down considerably in price. The US army has been phasing out Humvee's, so they're flooding the market which also brings down H1 prices.  It shouldn't be a problem to drive around here, I live in the suburbs. I would absolutely not buy one if I lived in a city though. They are known to be terribly unreliable. People often swap out the original 6.2/6.5L for a more reliable Duramax.  H1 and Humvee's are identical, minus the fact that the H1 has a dash and seats. It sadly also makes the H1 more expensive. I've driven both and the Humvee interior, or lack thereof makes it extremely loud and unpleasant to drive. Don't get me wrong, the H1's interior is horrendous, but at least it's present. Most do a custom interior in a Humvee which I'm also more than happy to purchase. 
    • PranK
      At first I thought these were knock offs....

      By PranK · Posted

      Then I realised it was just a typo. I was hoping for a set of Pirellys for my 5 series.
×
×
  • Create New...