Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

SK where did you get your intercooler from. Do you or does anyone know where to get them from, or how I could get one?

I bought mine from the SAU for sale section for reasonable price. They come up pretty regularly, have your money ready and move swiftly.:cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

if anyone is interested in going this route with their Stagea, i have a Trust sidemount for sale. they are larger than the R34IC's but bolt up just as easily.

i will be shipping it after next week to the highest bidder.

Trust IC

Damn it, I thoguht that sydneykid had put up the results?

Sydneykid, any news mate? we're all dieing here waiting.

Thanks Mate

Sorry, but it is racing season, Philip Island last weekend, Oran Park this weekend, Darwin in 2 weeks, Sandown 2 weeks after that and back to Oran Park the next week. That's 5 race meetings in 7 weeks in 3 states.

The Stagea stuff just has to wait in line. Plus I have to test the Magic Cat (for emmisions) and to do that I need to put the 3.25" exhaust on. I am aiming for emmisions testing this week and dyno tuning next week before we go to Darwin. But it is tight and we have no room for issues.

:(

Sorry, but it is racing season, Philip Island last weekend, Oran Park this weekend, Darwin in 2 weeks, Sandown 2 weeks after that and back to Oran Park the next week.   That's 5 race meetings in 7 weeks in 3 states.  

The Stagea stuff just has to wait in line.  Plus I have to test the Magic Cat (for emmisions) and to do that I need to put the 3.25" exhaust on.   I am aiming for emmisions testing this week and dyno tuning next week before we go to Darwin.  But it is tight and we have no room for issues.

:rofl:

SK as you are coming to Dwn and me living here let me know if ya want to catch up. I will be pit crewing for one of the local HQ drivers (my boss). so if you need a hand for running about let me know as I am on hoildays with my son who is up from Brissy.

Cheers ICE

SK as you are coming to Dwn and me living here let me know if ya want to catch up.  I will be pit crewing for one of the local HQ drivers (my boss).  so if you need a hand for running about let me know as I am on hoildays with my son who is up from Brissy.

Cheers ICE

Thanks for the invite, I may not be going up though. We have a new ECU package and I think I will have to send the engine tuner up instead. There are no spare seats on the plane, so it's him or me. Will know for sure later this week.:rofl:

OK I have just installed my GTT intercooler and was wondering what PSI people are running with this bigger one?

Before with my stock IC my boost was maxing at 8 PSI, now with the R34 GTT IC I am maxing out at 10 PSI. only mods are exhuast and air intake no boost controller of any sort.

So when I put my manual boost controller in is it safe to run 12PSI or stay at 10 or what do people recomend with a stock turbo?

I wouldnt think the intercooler alone would change your boost level by that much. I noticed a boost increase of just above 0.5psi. The only reason it will increase boost if your car is stock is because of the solenoid that bleeds air above 4500rpm. The amount it bleeds allows boost to go from 5psi to about 8psi above 4500rpm. As you are removing a restriction you will most likely have more air supply and it would need to bleed off a bit more ar to keep the pressure at 8psi which it doesn't so you get a little more. I still would think that you would be lucky to get more than 1psi if the setup is stock!

I think the consensus is 10psi is a lot safer. I have problems at around 10psi with Rich and retard so on stock ECU I think going above 9/10psi is pointless unless you use something like a Fuel Adjuster or powerFC. I have yet to determined if my problem is coil packs or just the ECU protecting things.

Mostly when I floor it the psi hits 6 and still does but when the car dropes down a gear or 2 and really gets reving it sorta leaks up to the 8psi and now 10psi, more so around and coming out of corners. I was very suprised to see it hit 10 as well.

I run 0.7 bar (10.3 psi) with the DFA tuned, but it wouldn't run more than 8 psi before the ECU R&R kicked in. That's with zero mechanical upgrades, std exhaust, inlet, timing etc. :rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey SK. Interested to read you only got 8psi before R&R.

I am having some trouble with the car hesitating a bit above about 8psi. Especially on cold nights. The car sort of runs a little rough as you rev it out and feels like it isn't going as hard at 10psi compared to say 7psi. Only when you come on boost. If you use part throttle to moderate the boost it feels like it is accelerating harder

I don't think it is the coils, I've now swapped them for others.

Just suprised as a lot of other people are running up to 12psi and not getting this kind of thing...

So I need PFC or DFA??

Thanks

Car is R33 RB25det manual series1

Hey SK.  Interested to read you only got 8psi before R&R.  

I am having some trouble with the car hesitating a bit above about 8psi.  Especially on cold nights.  The car sort of runs a little rough as you rev it out and feels like it isn't going as hard at 10psi compared to say 7psi.  Only when you come on boost.  If you use part throttle to moderate the boost it feels like it is accelerating harder

I don't think it is the coils, I've now swapped them for others.  

Just suprised as a lot of other people are running up to 12psi and not getting this kind of thing...

So I need PFC or DFA??

Thanks

Car is R33 RB25det manual series1

As I previously posted the Stagea ECU is a bit smarter than the average. It seems to be halfway between the R34GTT and R33GTST ECU's, with its protection strategy anyway. Plus ours has a standard exhaust (and everything else at the time), which complicates the tuning.

I have seen R33's with slight R&R at 7 psi, it depends on the mods and the tune. Strange things like smaller plug gaps and slightly advanced ignition timing help. So I always try them before I get into the more serious stuff.

For a manual I would ALWAYS go for the Power FC, far too many compromises with the piggy backs. But the DFA for ~$80 is a great low cost alternative if the budget is tight.

:mad:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...