Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Was in a xr6 turbo stock standard and wasnt too impressed...

But it did have a sweet as (premium) brake package!

Sound system was probably better than the R34s aswell, something Japanese cars dont tend to focus on lol

If it was me it wouldnt be a decision, the r34 looks sooooo much nicer and you dont see them all over the place either. If you really wanted a FAST straight line car then maybe go the xr6 turbo coz it will cost less to do low times but if u want a package then go the Skyline.. It'll always handle much better and look better. Remember the Ford is a family car and the R34 (even in 4 door form) is a sports car.

Go the Skyline :):P I know they turn my head over Xr6 turbos!

Somebody mentioned earlier on about the comparo between the XR6T and R34 GTT in Serious Peformance 7. The modified white R34 GTT driven by Ric Shaw was mine. It was ran against a 300kw XR6T owned by the president of the XR6T Forums (bunch of narrow-minded fanatics). Mine had approx 220kw at the flywheel at the time. If you listen to Warren Luff's (XR6T) comments he said he felt that the skyline was faster. It was also concluded that the skyline, which has a great deal of R&D behind it is the better choice for modifying.

As far as the comparo between the other two stock cars (gray XR6T and black four door R34 from Powerplay) the verdict was that the XR6T was the faster and better handler over all. Ric Shaw's comment was that the 34 felt like a limo with a bit more power in it.

In other words, stock for stock, the XR6T would be on top. However, I haven't met any performance car enthusiast who has not succumbed to the joys of modifying his/her toy.

Somebody mentioned earlier on about the comparo between the XR6T and R34 GTT in Serious Peformance 7. The modified white R34 GTT driven by Ric Shaw was mine. It was ran against a 300kw XR6T owned by the president of the XR6T Forums (bunch of narrow-minded fanatics). Mine had approx 220kw at the flywheel at the time. If you listen to Warren Luff's (XR6T) comments he said he felt that the skyline was faster. It was also concluded that the skyline, which has a great deal of R&D behind it is the better choice for modifying.

As far as the comparo between the other two stock cars (gray XR6T and black four door R34 from Powerplay) the verdict was that the XR6T was the faster and better handler over all. Ric Shaw's comment was that the 34 felt like a limo with a bit more power in it.

In other words, stock for stock, the XR6T would be on top. However, I haven't met any performance car enthusiast who has not succumbed to the joys of modifying his/her toy.

Toby can you provide links or articles etc which have info on these 2 comparisons?

ull prolly get the typical holden/ford fennatic argument, asif get a skyline only milk and juice should some in 2 litres!! asif buy a 4 cylinder(and yes i realise skylines are an inline 6)

actually I have found in my stays there thats the opposite for the majority . there is a lot of knowledge and respect for gtrs , evos , stis . obviously thats not everyone but thats my general impression . more than anything the most hated of all is the v8 commodore .

If you get the Ford, PLEASE don't get that blue, I'm sick of it i tells ya !

They look great in black.

..and of course, make sure you test drive both before making a decision.

and get what YOU like. (even if it is that blue..hehe)

Thought about the Toyota Chaser?? that another nice one.

Pretty much Toyota equivelant to Skyline GTT

2.5L turbo straight 6 with 206kws....4 door, tiptronic.

Guy at work has one.....noice

Although this debate may gladly rage, the Decision for me at least, has been made...........

DRUM ROLL............................................................................

................................................................................

................................................................................

................................................................................

................................................................................

...................................... R34 GTT is the pick!!!

Thanks greatly to FIREFROG, AFRO and the rest of the R34 and SAU Boys that came out on Saturday Night down the coast. I believe the GTT has the better overall package for me, besides it was always going to be a hard choice to betray my beloved nissans. :P Thanks to everyone who gave their input into this thread, it was very interesting to hear some of the stories people had to tell. Will post picks when I take delivery (perhaps not in this thread).

Just incase anyone is wondering what some of the other factors were that guided me in this direction, here they are:

*34 is an extension of an already proven powerplant, that being the RB25DET

*XR6T powerplant long term (5+ years) reliability has yet to be proven

*For me the R34 has the superior 'ride' in factory form (including braking, cornering and general driving position and feedback)

*I feel that the extra 200+ Kilos that the XR6T is lugging around would be hard to shed and/or compensate for without some serious money being spent on the suspension, brakes etc. The flip side is the GTT need not concern itself in this area and power gains can remain for the most part the only focus.

*The tip-tronic in the GTT has an overall better feel for my liking, hard to describe, drive both and you may see my point

*The looks. As someone mentioned earlier "how can you say no to those tail lights", point taken and agreed with

*In-terms of actually price the GTT is a couple of thousand cheaper so that money will go towards the car in some form, probably Alarm, Tint and Turbo timer.

*A bunch of other asthetic and gismo likings that I had with the 34

So thanks again everyone.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...