Jump to content
SAU Community

hall effect switch

letemlaf

By letemlaf,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

letemlaf Rising Star

letemlaf

Posted
Posted

has anyone heard of a hall effect switch?

If so, i have a problem with my daily driven car, a holden calibra.

It will start fine, then for no reason the next time i go to start it just kicks over but nothing. Seems like im not getting a spark when it decides not to start.

I got into the ecu which says the hall effect switch is getting high voltage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69518-hall-effect-switch/
Share on other sites
Bazelinez Proficient

Bazelinez

Posted
Posted

its a Calibra, that's the problem.

These have a pretty bad rep. Hall effect? never heard of it in mechanical terms... could be a bad igniter or simply your immobiliser playing up?

Sounds silly, but immobilisers sometimes cause more problems then you'd beleive.

Some immobilisers allow the car to turn over but not actually start, others stop everything.

Ant Collaborator

Ant

Posted
Posted

Hall effect switch = a switch activated by a magnet, basically a chip version of a reed switch.

Not sure how the engine management in a Calibra works, but it could be something along the lines of the crank angle sensor (CAS) in a Skyline - the hall effect switch might detect rotation of the crank so that it know when to fire the injectors, spark plugs etc. If this isn't giving the correct signal the engine don't go!

Absolutely no idea where you'd find it though in a Calibra!

Ant Collaborator

Ant

Posted
Posted
yeah its time to say goodbye i think.

I would like to fix the problem first so the new owner doesnt have the same problem.

If i can figure out why it has high voltage i will be able to fix the problem.

thanks guys!

High voltage probably implies that its state isn't changing - ie the signal from it should pulse in response to the magnet attached to the crank or cam passing by it. At a guess either the sensor itself is dead, or the activating magnet is not working properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...