Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so anyhting over 7-8psi and you had fuel cut 25t_sedan? Is it auto or manual?

If so, im am in the same position now as anything over 8psi and i got fuel cut. So, your tuner couldnt get the safc to help with the fuel cut at 9psi by bending the afm voltage...

how much did the hks fcd cost as when i get my safc installed if it experiences fuel cut still at my max boost of 10psi then i will be getting the hks fcd as well...thanks

ok....the timing was adjusted via CAS and Dyno.

Basically as far as i remember and i dont exactly know if this is correct as i may have forgotten details but my tuner explained everything to me very clearly but that was like 6 months ago so here we go.

As far as i understand....when u put the SAFC in and try bending AFM voltages it alters the voltage going to the ecu. So (just as an example) say your AFM was at 3 volts without the SAFC running 7 psi. Then you do an adjustment on your SAFC and it changes that voltage to say 4volts which could be equal to 12psi (what the computer is reading) even tho you are still only boosting 7-8 psi boost which is still fine but then when i tried increasing it any more than that .... the boost would increase by only 1psi but the boost that the comp was reading would be different and it would be supplying way too much fuel and therefore fuelcut.

Another problem that they came across was the FCD and the SAFC are meant to be hooked up to the AFM. When he installed the FCD it didnt do anything and it had the tuner thinking for a few minutes until they figured out that both the FCD and the SAFC were running off the AFM so he had to rewire the FCD to run of the MAP sensor instead.

Like i said i dont know if that stuff that i said above makes sense but my tuner explained this to me in some way like that :rofl:

The whole tune took 38 runs and total of 5 hours and the whole lot including the price of the FCD cost me $500. Out of that $500.. $250 was for the FCD. (keep in mind that this is NZ $)

By the way my car was an auto which has been converted to manual and is still running the auto ecu......Dont know if this would make any difference...

Basically at the moment im putting out about 190rwkws and at the time that it was 177 my car ran 13.5@170kmph, 60 foot was 2.2.....I was very happy with that time but now it has a bit more power and better tires so that time will drop to a low 13 hopefully a high 12 if the track is prepped for once :)

Hope this helps.....but just goes to show that the SAFC is definetly not useless :(

Oh yeah on my dyno it says 9 psi which was the peak boost for that particular run which it saw at 2800 rpm and then it was 8.5 the rest of the way to 7000rpm (redline) (shtty standard turbo and wastegate setup cant hold boost properly :))

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...