300rwhp (225rwkw)... what does it take?

[Joe]

300HP is a walk in the cake for a rb25det!

Let start with letting car breath

FULL exhaust / Intercooler

*note* depending on what turbo your after just get a cat back exhaust*

Secondly

Lets Play with Boost / give your car some extra food (fuel) & a new brain transplant (ECU)

GET a Blitz Dual SBC-iD II or a AVCR my choice is with the blitz

crack her up to 1bar & no more.

Injectors are bloody expensive buggers

Cheapest method = Series 5 RX& injectors & maybe a sonic bath depending on conditon

or

Nismo ones - ALL depends on budget as i said.

ECU do not go past the Power FC, there the only ECU to go for

ease of installation+price & alot of tuners do know how to use them over the other after market japanese ones.

TUNE - You should be making 180rwkw due to the fact that your turbo has done its job & you will require a new one...

Third Thing is.

A new Turbo, I would suggest a aftermarket japanese turbo package. If you cant find one. You have alot of turbo to choose from eg. t04e, gt2535 gt2530 gt28 gt 2835 t3/t4 ihi to mention a few.

Depending on what you choose you might require a new manifold made up & also wastegate!

RETUNE.

= you own one of the fastest cars on the road!

+ NEW TYRES

your breaks only work as good as your tyres does! remember that

*note* you will end with problems like blowing a gasket or a spark plug & sh*t but it just makes modding car alot more fun!

You be spending quite abit tho!

but ohh well you want power you pay for it

no such thing as buget power

Hope what i said is at least 70% true.

[benm]

Just an update if anyone was following this thread.

I'm up to 203rwkw with afew more tricks up my sleave to get it to ~215rkw.

I've worked out that basically you just need to make sure all links in the chain are even and power is fairly easy to generate.

[rev210]

have a look at the stock compressor maps.

300 HP at the motor is pushing it. Forget a real 300HP at the tyres that my friend is best left to the those who are dyno obsessed.

330HP? Forget it. Go buy the GT2535.

Let me put it to you that the HKS GT2530 is an upgrade on the stocker but, is able to flow a bit more than 300HP (at the motor) hence a dual 2530 equiped GTR may achieve a 600HP figure at the motor (things are never 100% efficient).

I know of a dyno or two in my local area that has shown a 300+rwhp figure on a few RB25DET engined cars and these cars I have beaten easy. Bottom line is they have a bit of paper and nothing to back it up with on the track or street. They really don't have 300HP at the motor let alone the tyres.

[whatsisname]

Originally posted by rev210

Bottom line is they have a bit of paper and nothing to back it up with on the track or street.

Never a truer word spoken! (typed actually )

I value the small pieces of paper with my car's 1/4 info on them far more than the A4's with my dyno runs.

These 2 pieces of paper put together (using the same dyno each time) makes for very handy info

[meggala]

rev you have one advantage over us with the motorplex

the times run there are consistently fast cause the track surface is very good and very fast. and power to you but as you say its all in the time I havent had a dyno run where I have posted a figure execpt a few lows one and your right these guys claiming 200 + rwkw from a stock rb25 turbo is just a joke but it can be used as a base my time of 14.00 @ 100 mph is fair considering there is plenty to make up in the 1/4 mile time but I'm not interested my goal was a 14 flat or a high 13 I got there and the car is running well and we had a shit 60' time so more could come but personally I wont be chasing that as it is hard for me to get to the track at the best of times. I will test the cefiro when it arrives just to post a time. your aim of the 12'second 1/4 has been interesting reading and I'm comming around to your thoughts on the lightened fly wheel after some disscussion.

I doubt you will get the 12 second 1/4 low 13 yes but not 12's I hoppe you prove me wrong but the power etc jsut dont add up

meggala

[MYGTST]

a realistic figure tor thr 25t on stock injectors and stock turbo is about 180- 190 ish rwkw

standard ecu, inj, pump will only support this much i know this

as that is waht i have ended up with

current mods

fmic

custom garrett T4

full 3" pipe and high flow cat

fuel cut defender

i reached 100% duty cycle at 179.5 rwkw

i need to change now

ecu

inj

fuel pump

fuel press regulator 2:1 ratio

[whatsisname]

Originally posted by meggala

I'm comming around to your thoughts on the lightened fly wheel after some disscussion

I'm convinced a light weight flywheel is worth doing. I'll be fitting one along with a serious clutch upgrade as my next mod

[whatsisname]

Stock injectors can be pushed quite a bit further than 180-190rwkw. Providing the reg, pump & fuel pressure are selected to suit a very safe & reliable compromise can be reached. Larger injectors are certainly the best option however.

Edit: Further to my above post - Stock injectors that may have clocked up considerable klms can be down on flow capacity (partially blocked, poor spray pattern etc.) & therefore will reach 100% DC below the 370cc factory rating.

Originally posted by MYGTST

a realistic figure tor thr 25t on stock injectors and stock turbo is about 180- 190 ish rwkw

standard ecu, inj, pump will only support this much i know this

as that is waht i have ended up with

current mods

fmic

custom garrett T4

full 3" pipe and high flow cat

fuel cut defender

i reached 100% duty cycle at 179.5 rwkw  

i need to change now

ecu

inj

fuel pump

fuel press regulator 2:1 ratio

[MYGTST]

are you still on standard injectors ?

or have you opted for bigger ?

if bigger which ones did you go for ?

[whatsisname]

Still using the factory injectors. Along with a Bosch '044 pump, Malpassi rising rate reg & raised f/pressure to suit. 16psi boost & I hit max duty on the datalogger. That's the main reason I only run 13psi (have gone to 15psi for a quick blast).

[Steve]

Originally posted by meggala

..... these guys claiming 200 + rwkw from a stock rb25 turbo is just a joke .....

Why is it a joke?

[benm]

While I agree with you guys that Dyno figures are just that... dyno figures I also agree that 1/4 times can be just 1/4 times.

Their are almost as many variables with 1/4 times as their are with dyno's.

Different track vs different dyno

Tuned dyno vs untuned dyno = track with good surface vs oil spill on that lane of the track earlier.

Different air temperatures, times of the day, drivers of the same car, yada yada the list goes on.

I'm trying to get more power out of my car to 'assist' in getting a better 1/4 time ready for when the new Eastern Creek Track opens in 7mths time.

Ben.

[meggala]

you see some work shops want you to see a big improvement in power when they do some thing so the ramp up rate can be changed to alter the figure the shoot out mode is probably the best guide its where the ramp up is 110% I think.

mph on the 1/4 mile tell alot of the story though

meggala

[Steve]

Thanks Meggala, I can see where you are coming from.

I think I agree with Benm too though. At the end of the day, track times, dyno figures, terminal speeds all have variables that makes it impossible to compare, unless you put two cars on the same dyno, same day, same mode. Even then, most people only compare peak hp, which tells nothing about driveability. Seems a shame that more attention isnt paid to the torque curve - and you'd end up with the same problem there too - different dynos, conditions etc

Even with ET and TS, some people blame tracks being stickier on a particualar day, humidity, temp etc....where does it end?

Just my 0.02

[whatsisname]

It doesn't matter how you try to dress it up - the info from a 1/4 mile time slip is FAR more informative on the power potential of a given eng/car combo than any dyno sheet! By 1/4 mile info I mean ET, TS, 60ft & things like ambient track air temp/humidity.

If the track is "sticky", as you've put it Steve, the 60ft time will reflect this. A car on a sticky track that records poor 60's has either bogged on launch, had w/spin, or clutch issues. The driver will KNOW this for a fact, likewise with the ambient track temp/humidity conditions. This info is recorded on the time slip! (Well it is on all of mine).

Sure there's the potential for inaccuracies in the track timing & temp equipment but I'd tend to put more faith in the ANDRA governed drag strip equipment than a totally unregulated Dyno Dynamics (*insert preferred brand of dyno here*) dyno.

I think the best all round solution to dyno v 1/4 info is to have both on hand. If you make gains on the dyno & the ET & TS improve (most importantly TS) then you've made a step in the right direction.

My $14.99 (unavoidable price rise due to impending Gulf conflict)

[Steve]

Whatsisname, I agree completely - the 1/4 mile tells no lies, a very accurate representation of all given things on a certain day, including driver skills and all round set up of the car, not just engine.

the thing I am getting at is that you can set a car up to be very fast in a straight line, figures look good on paper, but it may be a pig to drive in all conditions but a straight line.

At the end of the day, I suppose its a bit academic - but a 1/4 mile time is 'real'

Please dont think I am having a go at anybody who competes in or follows drag racing - I respect a good performance package whether for the strip or around a track!

[whatsisname]

All very true Steve. Didn't think for a second you were having a go at anyone mate

I certainly agree with you re setting up a car to go fast for 400m in a straight line & bugger all else! I'd like to think of my car as an "all rounder" rather than a straight line warrior

[EnricoPalazzo]

Straight Line Warriors are best know as Big 8's. Yet our 6's would prolly kill these things if there is the slightest bend in the road. I am also goin for all round performance. Daim i wish i could lauch hard like 4wds.

[rev210]

Put it this way;

the actual driving performance means the most to you (no mater what your preference), so this is the best thing to measure against for any modification. The 'tuning' of only the engine components is done on the dyno, the rest is on the road/track (ie: suspension/ tyres).

The dyno is only a tuning aid. The track/street/circuit/motokana or whatever is the REAL performance indicator.

[rev210]

Originally posted by meggala

rev you have one advantage over us with the motorplex

the times run there are consistently fast cause the track surface is very good and very fast. ......

I doubt you will get the 12 second 1/4 low 13 yes but not 12's I hoppe you prove me wrong but the power etc jsut dont add up

meggala

The plex is not a 'fast track' for the average street car (drag car is a different story).Have a look at most peoples 60ft times over here and you will see the reality. My times were posted on 35degrees plus nights where most modified GTS-t's ran 14seconds or worse. Would have loved to race last saturday with cool temps and fully prepped track.

It's Ok to doubt the 12second pass idea, it's not the power thats the issue its my 205 tyres. It will take a good launch to get the 2.1 or better 60ft I need to crack the 12, big ask for 205's tho'.

People doubted the 13.8 and then the 13.4.I like to try and put my money where my mouth is, I actually still owe a flat 13 from the last round of mod (ie: the addtion of the light flywheel) but, I only got a 13.4. I'm not walking the walk at the moment so I'd like to redeem myself.