Jump to content
SAU Community

My R33 had an attempted break in

MR R33

By MR R33,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

carlo Veteran

carlo

Posted
Posted

If your really paranoid then get your self a tracking system, thats the only way to keep an eye on your car 24x7. A black wired alarm is a good idea, but they could tow the car away.

Having multiple sirens on the car is a top idea, spend the time to install them and put one outside the car. Make sure your alarm has a tilt sensor so if its on the back of a tow truck the alarms will be going postal!

kul33 Newbie

kul33

Posted
Posted

Ur lucky, I'm from Brissy and was working in Parra for 3 months. parked at the corner of the Malsonic club almost everyday, thinking that it was safe cause it was off the main road (george street). One week before coming back to Brissy, I came back to the car to find the front-mount, boost controller (bleed value), air filter and blow-off valve gone. The alarm was triggered but no one cared, they didn't touched the inside of the car but managed to pop the bonnet and take what they wanted.

So f**ken pissed, had to pay for towing to Green Valley $150.00 and $1000 to replace everything.

Be very careful around that area!!!

Thankgod I'm back here

FriniK Community Regular

FriniK

Posted
Posted
there is one thing u can do. a guys did it in the rs liberty club that i was in before SAU...

When he put his alarm in he installed about 6 sirens all around the car. 2 in the bonnet, 3 inside the car and one in the boot of the car.  The ones inside the car were placed 2 under the dash (drivers side) and one under the passangers seat.

this was about a $40k subi so the security had to be good.  He left it at a train station one day and caught the train to work, or somewhere.  When he got back his window was smashed and the door was unlocked.  and one of the shop keepers told him that his alarm had been going off all day.  Obvisally he went to the cops and told them what happened they said there wasnt much why could do.

2 days later he got a call from the police saying that there was a guys in hospital that they think broke into his car.

The guy who broke into his car went to hospital 2 days after breaking into his car.  Because of the 2 sirens place under the dash on the drivers side, when he was trynig to hot-wire the car both his eardrums burst.  If anyone has had their eardrums burst they will know how it feels, it ***n hurts...

So install more sirens.  If u cant stop the ***ers deffen them.

P.S. sorry for all the spelling mistakes.

hahaha..thats class..

ive been reading alot about getting black wires for alarms...how bout installing a whole bunch of fake wires to make taking it that much harder, theyll end up tracing some wires to a dead end ...thus spending more time in the car becoming deaf...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By EndZee · Posted

      I can also smell fuel in oil if that helps. 
    • EndZee
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By EndZee · Posted

      Hello, after engine rebuild(new cylinder liners and piston rings, arp headstuds, metal cometic tripple layer gasket, all new main/rod bearings) and roughly 100km made I did measure compression and it’s (1-6) - 80, 60, 90, 120, 110, 135. It’s rb25det series 1 - hydraulic lifters. Measured on cold engine. Didn’t check on hot due to overall car problems such as broken 3rd gear, idle issues, misfire etc. I did smoke test only on 2nd and 5th cylinder bcs soldering iron used with this method broke itself. So after setting cams to side - side 90 left/right angle I can see smoke coming off from intake manifold and turbo exhaust flange. 5th didn’t notice any smoke. Shop did head, valve etc job but I assemble it by myself. So I thinking about lifters. I don’t remember if they were soft or not it was long time ago. In my opinion I didn’t bleed them and they can be opened more than they should be. Can it be more likely possible? Or timing can be off by 1 teeth and can cause such weird compression? But if timing would be out wouldn’t it be like such big difference across all cylinders? Please help I’m so sad it happened. 
    • sunsetR33
      newbie attempts the GTR life.

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • codygrimm27
      Attesa pump mount options / ideas? R32 gtr style.

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
×
×
  • Create New...